Burned Out in Ely

We arrived at Fall Lake Campground north of Ely on Tuesday, August 24 about 2:00 PM.  We had a reservation for three nights on site #7.  Since our Boundary Waters entry permit had been canceled, we planned to stay a little longer in the area as we considered our options. We needed to move to a non-reservable site, since we could stay on a non-reservable site for up to 14 nights without moving.  Unfortunately, no other walk-up sites were available for this evening, so we set up on #7.  The next morning we went to the office and scored site #36, which is lakeside and very nice.  An unexpected bonus is that #36 has a clear view to the south, and we could pick up Dish Network on our rooftop satellite dish.  This is a mixed blessing.  On the one hand, I'm a news junkie and can pick up all my morning and evening news shows, as well as Jeopardy, my favorite TV show.  On the other hand, having Dish Network means I am liable to be watching TV and hanging in the coach when I should be out enjoying this fine early fall Northwoods weather.  Life is tough!

Site #36 Fall Lake Campground

Ok, so here we are.  We knew it was dry in the Boundary Waters; on July 22 open fires were banned in all of Superior National Forest, including the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW).  That was bad news, but not devastating for us.  We love to have a fire, but have survived fire bans in previous years. Then we learned on August 21, the entire BWCAW had been closed to all camping and boating and our entry permit was canceled.  The initial closure was for 7 days, ending the day of our original permit, so I acquired a new permit for 2 days later.  But, you guessed it, the closure was extended, and our new permit was also canceled.  Plan B was to camp on a backcountry lake somewhere in the Superior Nation Forest but outside the BWCAW.  Not the same as camping in the BWCAW, but hey, we were packed for camping and ready to rumble.  But then the final blow.  On August 30 the USFS announced that all backcountry camping in the Superior National Forest had also been closed. DRAT!!!!  Luckily the front-country campgrounds, such as Fall Lake CG were still open, so we could at least hang out at one of our all-time favorite campgrounds.

There are a number of active wildfires in the area.  There is at least one large fire in Quetico Provincial Park just across the border, which the Canadians are not bothering to try to suppress.  Additionally the Greenwood Lake fire, the John Ek fire, Whelp fire and others are burning nearby.  When we departed Duluth and drove to Ely there was heavy visible smoke in the air.  While in Ely we had mostly clear air, but a few smoky days. 

Note Air Quality index is 206: Very Unhealthy. The AQI in Ely is normally about "1"

Looking across Fall Lake the day after we arrived in Ely

Looking across Fall Lake on a clearer day

Thankfully, the smoke was diminished and the air quality was much better during the remainder of our stay in Ely.  On the way to town a fawn crossed the road in front of our car.

On the day after we arrived Ely was a ghost town

The overnight and trailer parking lot at Fall Lake is eerily empty

And just when we thought it couldn't get any worse, we drove to town to eat at Britton's Cafe, our favorite breakfast joint and found it closed.  The restaurant was closed to the public, but was preparing meals for firefighters and other emergency responders.  

Food for the firefighters

There was a little good news inEly: The Chocolate Moose, which had been closed for several years had reopened, so we had breakfast there instead.

There was rain in the forecast for the weekend.  Sure enough we did get close to an inch of accumulated precipitation, but it was not nearly enough for the USFS to reopen the forest for camping.

We couldn't paddle in the BWCAW, but we could do some day paddles in lakes outside the wilderness.  On one day we paddled in Ojibway Lake and Triangle Lake only about 10 miles from camp.  

Our friend John paddled with us

We met John on a portage path in the BWCAW some years ago.  We saw him and his wife a few days later at Fall Lake Campground and got to know them a little better.  John and Lucinda come to the Ely area every year about the same time as we do, and we have run into them at Fall Lake CG several times since then.  The paddling community can be a small world. 

It sure looks like the BWCAW

We put in on Ojibway Lake with the plan to take the short 10 rod portage over into Triangle Lake.  As we approached the portage we saw a small dock, which would not have been allowed in the wilderness. 

Furthermore, there was a log structure with steel rollers that traversed the portage.  Who wants to carry your boat when you can use the roller coaster!

There is a 190 rod portage from Triangle Lake to the South Kawishiwi River. We took a look, then turned around and headed back home.

Matilda was just happy to be on the water

A young voyageur

Our Route

These lakes were very scenic and interesting with lots of islands and coves. There was lots more of both lakes to the east that we could have explored.  Maybe next time.

Another version of our route on Ojibway and Triangle Lakes

We have been experiencing some nice cool fall weather

The ferns are turning

A ruffed grouse wandered through camp

A Franklin ground squirrel was close behind

Our original plan had been to spend three nights at Fall Lake CG, then put into the wilderness for 13 more nights, then spend two more nights at Fall Lake CG, before racing southward through Wisconsin to Nappanee IN for service on our coach at the Newmar factory.  We had only allowed one night to drive the 750 miles to Nappanee.  Since our wilderness trip had been scuttled, it meant we could just hang out in Ely for a while and then not be rushed to get to Nappanee.  We have spent 10 relaxing and laid back days at Fall Lake CG, but now it is time to leave.  The most direct route to Nappanee is south through Wisconsin and Illinois.  However, we have decided to double back east through Michigan's UP and then go south along the Lake Michigan coast.  We came through the UP a few weeks ago, but will stay at some different parks on the Lake Superior shore on our way back towards the Mighty Mac.

BREAKING NEWS:

As I was just finishing composing this post, the USFS announced that most portions of the BWCAW will be reopened beginning September 4.  That means we could put in on that date for a much shorter trip, providing we could secure a permit, which is likely a long shot.    Click HERE to read the announcement from the USFS.

We had already made our plan to leave tomorrow, and it was a long shot that we could get an entry permit on such short notice, so we will stick with our revised plan B and start working or way to Nappanee. 

So that's the way the cookie crumbles.  Timing is everything.  You just have to be flexible and roll with it.

Bad News in Duluth

 We checked in at Lakehead Boat Basin in Duluth MN shortly after noon on Saturday, August 21 for three nights.  Lakehead is a wonderful facility and a favorite stop when we are in the area. It primarily is a marina, but in the summer they offer about 25 RV parking spots adjacent to the Duluth Harbor.  In the winter they haul the boats out of the water and park them where the RVs are parked.  Since we were here in 2016 they have repaved the parking sites and re-striped all the spaces, making for fewer, but larger sites. The park is within 3 blocks of Canal Park, a major shopping and dining district, and the famous Aerial Lift bridge.

Site 13 at Lakehead Boat Basin

About an hour after checking in we received horrifying news: Our Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness entry permit had been canceled by the USFS. EGADS!!!  Our wilderness trip into the Boundary Waters was to have been the climax of this trip.  We knew it had been extremely dry in Northern Minnesota, and there was a total burning ban in the Superior National Forest due to ongoing fires there and in Quetico Provincial Park in Canada, but we had never considered there could be a total closure.  The email from the USFS said all Boundary Waters entry points had been closed until 8/27, which happened to be the same date as our entry permit.  

Extreme drought, multiple fires and limited resources prompt closures

Duluth, Minn., August 21, 2021 — The Superior National Forest is closing the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, effective August 21, 2021, due to active and increasing fire activity, extreme drought, limited resources. The closure will be in place for seven days, and may be modified or extended as conditions allow.

This closure includes all lands, waters, trails, portages, campsite, canoe routes and Wilderness entry points in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. The Forest has notified permit holders and outfitters and is cancelling permits today through August 27. Permit holders will be fully reimbursed. At this time, all overnight paddle, day use and motorized day use is cancelled. The Forest will reopen portions of the Wilderness and/or some uses when it is safe.

This action is unprecedented.  I don't think there has ever been an occasion where the entire Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness has been totally closed.  I immediately acquired another permit for entry on 8/29, 2 days after our original entry permit, but information from the USFS strongly suggests that the BWCAW closure will be extended.  You can read about fire updates HERE and the Boundary Waters closures HERE.  After 3 nights in Duluth we have 3 nights reserved at Fall Lake Campground outside Ely MN.  Fall Lake Campground is in Superior National Forest, but just outside the BWCAW and is open.  We will regroup and consider our options after we get to Ely.  

Lift Bridge down

Lift Bridge up

On this weekend there was an arts festival at Bayfront Festival Park across the harbor from our camp.  I rode over to see what was happening.  Duluthians apparently love their Aussies.

Watching the ore boats from our camp

Views across Duluth Harbor from our camp site.  From Wikipedia:

The Port of Duluth is the world's farthest inland port accessible to oceangoing ships and the largest and busiest port on the Great Lakes The port is ranked among the top 20 ports in the United States by tonnage. Commodities shipped from the Port of Duluth include coal, iron ore, grain, limestone, cement, salt, wood pulp, steel coil, and wind turbine components.

The sights around Canal Park:

Dorcas chilling on the Canal park boardwalk

 I launched the drone and took a few aerial shots of the Duluth Harbor and our camp.

It's a little tricky flying at night.  My drone's obstacle avoidance system utilizes optical sensing and doesn't work in the dark.  "George, George, George of the jungle, watch out for that bridge!"

Duluth has a number of unique buildings and architecture.  One example is the Old Central High School.  From Wikipedia:

The Historic Old Central High School of Duluth, Minnesota, United States, is a local landmark dating to 1892. One of Minnesota's leading examples of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture, it occupies an entire city block and sports a 210-foot clock tower.  It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places as Duluth Central High School in 1972

On Tuesday, August 24 we departed Duluth.  On this day the wind was from the north and smoke from the fires in Northern Minnesota and Canada were heavy.  At the office for Lakehead Boat Basin the owner reported folks were checking out early and others were cancelling their reservations due to the smoke.

As we drove the 126 miles north towards Ely there was heavy smoke in the air and clear evidence of the fires.  We will hang out in Ely for at least 3 nights and consider our options.  There are other USFS campsites outside the Boundary Waters and outside the closure areas that we may consider.  We're all packed for tent camping; hopefully we can find something inviting. 

Stay tuned.