Out of the Wilderness ... At Last!

Dorcas and I have been going into the Boundary Waters every year since we met in 1997. We have always gone in the late summer/early fall, usually the two weeks around Labor Day. On most days during past trips I would wear short pants and a tee-shirt during the day and put on a little more clothing as the temperatures dropped late in the afternoon. Often it would rain for a day or two, but we would be blessed primarily with mild and fair weather. I think all this good weather luck caught up with us this year. While back home folks were seeing 90+ degree days every day and weeks at a time without rain, we experienced the coldest, wettest, windyest (sp?) trip we have ever had in the Boundary Waters. It didn't rain every day, but it probably did rain every other day. And they were cold rains. Typically the high temperatures were in the mid-60s with lows in the mid-40s, frequently with winds blowing in excess of 20 mph. I put on my long-handled bottoms on the second day, and they never came off after that. I wore a Gore-Tex rain jacket practically all day, every day. I think the only time we were really comfortable was when we were in our sleeping bags in our tent. We spent a lot of time reading and went to bed early on more than a few evenings. High winds and paddling on large lakes can be an adventure. During the first half of our trip we were primarily east-bound and the wind was largely at our backs, providing a free ride. But as we turned the corner at Horseshoe Lake and began traveling westward, the wind became a serious impediment and was a factor in our travel planning. Two particular crossings, Winchell Lake on Day 12 and Brule Lake on Day 14, were particularly challenging. Ironically, the most interesting event of the trip was due to the high winds. While traveling into a strong head wind on Cliff Lake we heard very clearly the sound of shattering timber. After a short moment of panic we saw a very large tree about 100 yards to our left beginning to tip. It was taller than any other tree around it, and it appeared to be green and alive. Over a period of what seemed like forever, but probably was less than about 8 seconds, we watched it fall, taking out a number of smaller trees on its way down. The sound was terrifying and fascinating, but it reminded us of the power of the wind and the respect we should show it.

Other parts of our trip were a-typical compared to past trips. We caught a few fish, but only caught enough for a decent fish fry one time. I think this was partly because the fish weren't cooperating, but with the poor weather we just didn't really have our heart into fishing. On several layover days we never took the boat out. Wildlife sightings were off. In the past we have seen bears, moose, otters, minks and other interesting mammals. This year, except for a few beavers and bald eagles, the highlight sightings were the obligatory campsite squirrels and mice.

To top things off I was sick during the entire trip. About the time we put in I came down with what I think may have been a sinus infection. It never got better during the trip and left me feeling weak, and nauseous, with a constant headache, for most of the trip. Thankfully Dorcas and Lynda both pop Benadryl and had plenty to spare, which did help relieve the symptoms somewhat. I am going to see my doctor when I get home and secure a supply of antibiotics for my first aid kit.

We were in the Boundary Waters for 14 days. Normally on the last night we are sad and savor those last few hours in the wilderness. This year on our last night I think we were all ready for the trip to end.

In the early years of going to the Boundary Waters we planned ambitious trips, covering many miles and moving almost every day. In the latter years our trips have become much easier. While we are in for 14 days and our food pack on day one still weighs over 80 pounds, we have learned we don't have to work so hard to enjoy the wilderness. This year we paddled and portaged a total of about 33 miles and laid over 5 days.

We took out at our put-in at Brule Lake and drove about 3 hours back to Ely. On the drive we saw deer and red fox, more wildlife than we had seen in the wilderness. After a short detour to the Dairy Queen for a traditional milk shake we arrived at Fall Lake and found our respective RVs to be as we left them. We all enjoyed long showers and then a fine dinner at The Chocolate Moose in Ely.

As I read back over this report I see it seems rather negative and implies that we may not have had a good time. That is far from the truth. It is true that the weather was not as good, and we didn't catch as many fish, as on most previous trips. But we did do and see many great things, as we always do. The wilderness presents many faces. The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is one of my favorite places. I am already looking forward to the next trip.