Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Paddle: Homosassa River

We continue to enjoy fine Florida weather. Before daylight this morning it was a brisk 33 degrees, but by 9:00 it was again shirt-sleeves and shorts weather. I cooked a brunch consisting of pancakes and sausage for Dorcas, Bob, Donna and Charlie. This evening Charlie is frying a turkey for the crew. Dorcas and I will break out a bottle of champagne to bring in the New Year, although we will likely be finished celebrating and in bed by 9:30.

Yesterday we paddled on the Homosassa River. The Homosassa is an excellent place to see manatees. We had hoped that with the recent cold snap the manatees would be in the spring. We put in at a public boat ramp about a mile downstream from the spring and paddled upriver. We did see a few manatees, but not as many as last year. Apparently most of the guys stayed out in the Gulf this day. We saw a few bald eagles and a few ospreys, as well as a wide assortment of other common Florida birds. Others in our group spotted some otters and a porpoise. The clear shallow waters also revealed a number of fish, including a small sting ray. After turning around, we paddled a short distance up the Halls River. There we lunched at the Marguerita Grill, which has become a tradition when we paddle this river. Back near the put-in there is a tiny island with some captive monkeys. On the way up the monkeys were rather bashful and stayed hidden in their trees. On the way back, Matilda barked at them and got them riled up. They came down to the water and bared their teeth and made faces at Matilda, while Matilda continued to bark. Great fun!

Sunday, December 28, 2008

Paddle Withlacoochee River: 2X

Depending which source you believe Withlacoochee means either "Crooked River" or "Little Big Water". Both terms are accurate descriptions of this river. The Withlacoochee is crooked, and it alternates between narrow banks and larger lakes.

Yesterday afternoon we put in for a short paddle on the Withlacoochee River. We put in on Silver Lake, about 100 yards from our campsite, and paddled south on the lake and upstream into the river. There was little perceptible flow, and we paddled about two miles to the Crooked River campground, where we made a u-turn and returned to camp. It was very pleasant warm-up paddle for our first paddle on this trip.

Today we put in at the same place on Silver Lake but paddled north and downstream about 9 miles to the town of Nobleton. The water was very low in places, but we made it down OK. Wildlife sightings included birds: a red-shouldered hawk, limpkins, white herons, anhingas, and ibises; and reptiles: many turtles and a half-dozen small alligators all on the same log. These were Matilda's first gators, but she didn't even notice them. We lunched at Hog Island, a forest service recreation area about half-way down the run. Matilda only went swimming once. She was perched precariously with her front paws on the gunwales when we bumped a log in the water, and in she went: kerplunk. She was quickly retrieved from the drink before the gators had their chance at her. Another perfect day on the river!

Saturday, December 27, 2008

FLORIDA!

We are camped at the Cypress Glen Campground at the Silver Lake Recreation Area in Withlacoochee State Forest, near Brooksville, FL. Whew! That's a mouthful! We have water and 50A electric for $15/night, which is a pretty good deal. There are actually three separate campgrounds here, and currently they are all full up. We would not have had a site at all if some friends hadn't staked us one out. We are with paddling friends and will do a bit of canoeing over the next week or so. The Withlacoochee State Trail also runs by the campground, so we will do some biking too. On January 4 we will move south towards Tampa.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Southbound and Down

Dorcas and I left Ran's house in Angier about 1:00pm. We just enjoyed a traditional Christmas dinner at the Waffle House near Ridgeland, SC. I sincerely enjoy traveling at Christmas. We found a strong wi-fi signal when we parked the coach, so I decided I would make a quick post.

Earlier this afternoon we pumped 116 gallons of $2.19 diesel. That is the least we have ever paid for diesel. Ironically, that was in Lumberton, NC. Fuel prices in South Carolina are usually 10 to 15 cents cheaper than in NC. The cheapest diesel we have seen in South Carolina is $2.31. Go figure.

While pumping fuel I saw an Australian Shepherd running around the fuel islands that looked just like Matilda. She even had a bandanna just like Matilda's. Wait a minute ... it IS Matilda. Apparently Matilda had followed me out of the coach, and I had closed the door behind myself not realizing she had slipped out. I guess I was so excited about the cheap fuel that I wasn't paying enough attention. If I had not seen her we conceivably could have driven off without her and not known where she had gotten to. That's scary! We recovered the pooch before a southbound Yankee got her thus averting a potential disaster: Dorcas would have killed me if I had lost her dog!

We plan to drive about two more hours and park in a rest area just north of the Florida line. The weather is beautiful. Wish you were here!

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Merry Christmas!

We spent the night in my brother's driveway in Angier, NC. Before dark we set up a Christmas tree on the dashboard of the coach and hung Christmas lights around the windshield. Cute. This is the first time that I can recall that we have been together with my mother and my brother's entire family for Christmas. My brother Ran has kids ranging from eight to 25 years old. With the kids' hectic schedule (not to mention our own constant wander lust) it may be a long time before it happens again.

This afternoon we will hit I-95 southbound. We will fill up with cheap diesel near Dillon, SC and spend the night on the road somewhere in south Georgia. Tomorrow we will arrive at Withlacoochee State Recreation Area about 60 miles north of Tampa, where we will spend a week or more biking and paddling with friends.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

On the Road Again - Finally

Faithful readers may think we perished in Wisconsin. In fact, we safely departed northern Wisconsin and returned via Michigan's UP, arriving safely at home on September 22. Unfortunately I have not updated this journal since September 14. We have heard from many friends, all hoping that we were well and wondering what we have been doing. We certainly have been busy in the last few months. In October we attended two back-to back Country Coach rallies in Chattanooga and Hilton Head. We have been paddling heavily, including two three-day camp outs on the Lumber River in November, and we have hiked a few days. Motor home repairs and upgrades are a constant in our life. The most significant project was the replacement of both TVs. We are now ready for the digital revolution. Dorcas and I both upgraded our driver's licenses to a "Classified Class B license" and are now legal to drive our coach. We each had to take an extensive written test and a road test in our coach with a DMV examiner. Apparently, the NCDMV has confidence in our ability to drive the big rig.

Today we leave home for another extended trip. My mother is coming here this morning and we will take her to my brother's home south of Raleigh for Christmas. This will be the first Christmas in many years that we have all been together. On Thursday afternoon we will head south for Florida. There we will attend several motor home rallies, renew many friendships and paddle as many days as we can. We will return to NC in late March. I hope to post some reports of our adventures a bit more frequently than I have in the past few months.

Merry Christmas!

Myron

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Quote of the Week

I belong to an exclusive and unique canoe club, the DBT (Dumb But Tough) Club. This club is so exclusive that there are only three members. We adopted this name because we have a propensity to do ridiculously long or hard canoe camping trips during February and other frigid months. Our motto is "If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough".

During these outings mealtime sanitation is sometimes less than optimal. During one such DBT outing, when we were getting ready to wash dishes, one member asked if we should use soap. Another member replied "Nah, then we'll just have to rinse 'em."

Out of the Wilderness-On the Road Again

We came off the Namekagon River about noon today. The Namekagon River is beautiful, but the weather was dreadful. We paddled about 50 miles in 4 days, and it rained about half the time. At least Friday was a gorgeous day. Hopefully we can come back and enjoy this river in some better weather. Actually, I think God made rainy days so you could really appreciate the nice days.

We are camped and drying out at the LCO Casino in Hayward Wisconsin. The casino is operated by the Lac Courte Oreilles Band of Ojibwe. Hayward is famous for, among other things, the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame the Lumberjack World Championships and the Chequamegon Fat Tire Festival, which ended today and features 2500 cyclists.

We plan to stay here until Tuesday, then we will head east across the upper peninsula of Michigan.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Out of the BWCAW

We came out of the Boundary Waters about 11:00 this morning. We had a great trip, as usual. The weather was good, although a little wetter and a little cooler than most past trips. This was our longest trip: 15 days. We would have a hard time carrying enough food for a trip any longer, particularly when carrying food for Matilda. Matilda did good. Everything was new to her, so everything got barked at, at least once. She did fall off the boat a few times, however. A couple times she slipped and fell off. At least once she rolled off when she fell asleep. The fishing was good, and we managed to eat fish for as many dinners as we wanted.

We are camped at Fall Lake Campground outside of Ely. We are re-provisioning for our next trip and doing some laundry. Tomorrow we will put in for four days on the Namekagon River in northwest Wisconsin After that we will be done with wilderness camping for a while and will start working our way back towards NC.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Annual BWCAW Paddle 2008


Today we will put into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness for a 15-day trip. Dorcas and I have done this paddle with our friends Wayne and Lynda, every autumn (except one,) since we met in 1997, Wayne and Lynda have been going even longer. This year we will put in at Fall Lake and paddle north and west. We don't know precisely where we will go or even where we will take out. We have enough food for 15 days, so we will plan to take out on September 10.

And if that weren't enough, on September 11 we plan to put in for a 4-day paddle on the Namekagon River in northwest Wisconsin. After that we will begin to wander back home. Of course, we will have no internet access in the BWCAW, so this will be my last post for a while.

Bon voyage.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Boundary Waters Blues Festival

Today we experienced the 8th annual Boundary Waters Blues Festival, held on the shores of Fall Lake in beautiful downtown Winton, MN (pop 185). We could have paddled about three miles from our campsite down Fall Lake to the venue, but we wimped out and drove instead. This was the last day of the three-day festival, and we grooved to fine blues music from 1:00 pm until midnight. I am not up on any of the current blues artists and had never heard of any of these guys, but they were all great. We saw 112 North Duck, Virgil Caine, Nellie Tiger Travis, Biscuit Miller and the Mix, and the headliner Larry McCray. Jack Kritzer performed between events. He would roam through the audience playing 45-minute solo riffs while talking with the crowd.

I have never been to a blues festival, so I can't be sure, but this didn't seem to be the usual crowd for such an event. Many seemed to be locals and most seemed to be outdoors folks: hunters, fishermen, campers and paddlers. The big door prize was a 42-pound kevlar canoe. Between acts contestants would spin the Wheel of Meat, to win dried ostrich meat products. You don't see that just anywhere.

Too much fun.



Photo of the Week

Puppies like sticks. Matilda likes sticks more than most puppies. Matilda is in heaven. So many sticks, so little time.

Matilda is now 4 1/2 months old. We weighed her this morning at the Ely Veterinary Clinic: 25.5 pounds. We already have her food packed for the BWCAW. I think we are going to have to put in another bag.

Let There Be Fire!!!

In a previous post I described the fire ban that went into effect this week. The ban affects the entire route we had planned for our BWCAW trip. Bummer.

Today we caved to our inner primeval needs and made a new reservation into an area not affected by the current fire ban. Ranger Roy at the Kawishiwi Ranger District station gazed into his crystal ball and predicted that the current ban would not be expanded into other areas during our trip. We have cancelled our prayers for rain. Let there be FIRE!!!!

Weekend Warriors Beware!

We have observed a funny thing here, both in Ely and on the Superior North Shore. Late on Thursday night, every single week, the price of gasoline increases 10 cents at every station in town. Early Tuesday morning, every single week, it drops exactly 10 cents, back to the previous price. This looks to me like price-fixing and a conspiracy to gouge the tourist. There ought to be a law ....

Ironically, the price of diesel doesn't change. It's about 30 cents higher all the time than it is near Duluth.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Thou Shalt Not Burn

It has been extremely dry in Minnesota. There has been no significant rain since June, when it rained cats and dogs for several days. That was the same event that produced the flooding in Iowa and other parts of the Midwest. Today they imposed a total ban on open fires in the area of the BWCAW where we intended to be next week. This is bad news for several reasons. First, it's just nice to have a fire when you are camping in the wilderness. Not having a fire takes away from the experience. Second, with some of the elaborate meals we cook, a cook-fire is desirable, if not absolutely necessary. A backpacker's stove just doesn't produce enough heat to fry a big pan of walleye. Many of our meals need 4 or 5 burners, and you just don't have those on a stove. Also, it is difficult to carry enough fuel for two weeks when you can't burn wood. Besides all that, it's just nice to keep a pot of coffee or a pot of beans going on the fire during a layover day. Thirdly, a fire ban severely effect our trash management strategy. The BWCAW mandates that all food be in either reusable or burnable containers, suggesting that folks should burn their trash (although Minnesota state law says otherwise). It is not very practical or pleasant to carry your food scraps and other trash for two weeks over 200+ rod portages.

It is unlikely that the ban will be lifted before we put in. There is no significant rain in sight. We are consulting with our traveling partners, who are still in NC, to see if we want to change our trip and go to an area where there is not a fire ban. This would mean forfeiting our permit and the reservation fees, which is not a big deal. However, we may not be able to get a permit into another area, and there is also the chance that the ban could be broadened to include other areas. It would also mean some logistical challenges. We are camped at Fall Lake because that was close to our intended route. Any other route we choose will be further away. We had planned to leave the coach at Fall Lake, which is relatively safe and secure. We will probably do that regardless of where we put in.

On a more positive note, I picked up my boat today at the Spirit of the Wilderness, and I am very pleased with the repairs. The bottom looks great. In fact, the bottom looks much better than the sides of the boat. In order to save weight and expense, they only re-coated the boat on the bottom up to about the water line. Our boat also had a number of superficial scratches on the sides (wonder how that happened?). So now the part of the boat you can't see when it is in the water looks the best. But that's OK. After this trip it will all look the same again anyway. Let's go paddling!!!!

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Photo of the Week

Another blatant monopoly.

We Got the Shaft! Soudan Underground Mine

As with many places on this trip, we have driven by the Soudan Underground Mine many times, but have never stopped. Today we spent the day at the Soudan Underground Mine State Park. The mine was opened in 1884 and operated until 1962, when US Steel closed it and donated the mine to the State of Minnesota. The Soudan was called the "Cadillac" of mines. It was a safe mine, because the rock was so tight, no supporting timbers were needed. There was never a cave-in. It was also very dry, so workers were relatively comfortable. When the mine closed they were working level 27, more than 2300 feet below the surface. When the mine was originally opened it was an open pit mine, but they quickly discovered that there was extremely rich ore deeper down, and so they went underground. The ore from the mine was extremely rich and contained an extra oxygen molecule, which helped in the refining process. Mining here was not very efficient however. Everything had go to up (ore) and down (equipment, materials and workers) the 4' x 6' shaft, and could weigh no more than 6 tons. This inefficiency was ultimately the demise of the mine. Improved refining techniques made lower quality ore from open pit mines more economical. Refiners learned they could inject oxygen directly into the furnace rather than use oxygen-rich ore. Open pit mines could extract ore on a scale just not possible from an underground mine. Bummer for Soudan.

The state park offers tours down into the mine. Actually there are two tours, and we took them both. The most popular tour is the Historical Mine Tour where you travel down the hoist to the 27th level, 2340' below the surface, then ride a rail car 3/4 mile north to the area that was being worked when the mine was closed. The original mining equipment is still in place and interpreters explain the techniques. Of course they also turn the lights out so you can experience total and complete darkness. It was a constant 50 degrees in the mine, and there were bats fluttering around and clinging to the walls. One lady in our tour freaked out when the bats flew over. I don't know what she was expecting; there was ample warning before we went down.

The second tour was the High Energy Physics Tour. This part gets a little technical. I didn't understand half of it, but here is the condensed and dumbed-down version; the part I sort of thought I maybe understood a little bit. The Soudan Underground Laboratory, operated by the University of Minnesota, has developed several research projects on Level 27 to study sub-atomic particles. This research would not be possible on the surface because of interference from solar and cosmic radiation. Under a half mile of iron ore and very dense Ely Greenstone, cosmic radiation is essentially eliminated. One project is the Main Injector Neutrino Oscillation Search (MINOS). Here they try to capture and study neutrinos, a very small particle similar to an electron, but with no electrical charge. Neutrinos are extremely hard to detect, because they are so small and seldom react with other matter. While neutrinos occur naturally and are extremely common, the neutrinos being detected here are those being fired from Fermilab in Chicago, which travel 457 miles underground through solid rock. The target detector here consists of 485 steel plates, octagonal in shape, 1" thick and 26 feet tall and 26 feet wide. Each plate is laminated with plastic scintillator strips which create light when a particle passes through. Neutrinos are so hard to detect that while ~1.3 E20 (1,300,000,000,000,000,000,000) neutrinos were fired from Fermilab during the first year, only about 200 were detected at Soudan.

The second laboratory is the Cryogenic Dark Matter Search (CDMA). Here researchers are looking for dark matter, the stuff astronomers think makes up most of the matter in the universe. The matter that we are familiar with: air, water,earth and planets, etc,. are made up of well-known elementary particles: protons, neutrons and electrons. It is known that other particles must exist, because of the evidence of their gravitational effect. One theory is the existence of the Weakly Interacting Massive Particle or WIMP. The WIMP is believed to be related to the photon, but with mass up to 10,000 times greater than a photon. A WIMP would only be detectable when it collides with an atomic nucleus. It is thought that 10 trillion WIMPs pass through a kilogram of mass each second, but only a few per year actually bump into anything. CDMS is a project designed to detect these collisions. CDMS has produced detectors the size and shape of a hockey puck that contain very pure crystals of germanium and silicon. When a collision occurs there is vibration which creates minute warming on the germanium crystal. Sensitive thermometers detect this warming. The sensors operate at -460 degrees F, only 1/10th of a degree above absolute zero, making this the coldest place on earth, colder in fact than outer space. Twelve detectors were installed in 2002 and 18 more were added in 2006, but no WIMPs have been detected yet.. Perhaps if they had a Butt-Ugly Low-Life Yahoo (BULLY), he could find a them a WIMP. And you thought you had to go to college to get this kind of education!

The science is all well and good, but the most interesting part of the labs was how they built them. Each lab is in a cavern 270' long, 50' wide and 40' high. Each cavern was excavated solely for the construction of each respective laboratory. Remember all those 26' wide octagonal steel plates? They had to come down that 4' x 6' shaft! 6 tons at a time. All that excavated material? Up the same shaft, 6 tons at a time. All this during the same period when the state park was bringing tourists down the shaft for mine tours. The plates and all the other parts were brought down at night in pieces no larger that 4 x 6 x 33 feet, and then fabricated 1/2 mile down. In fact, they disassembled a full-sized front-end loader, brought it down the shaft and reassembled it. A year later, they tore it apart and took it out, Kinda like building a ship in a bottle, except you can work inside this bottle.

For me the most interesting part of the whole operation was the engine room and the hoist operation. The same hoist system has been in use since the mine was opened in 1884. An operator in the engine room operates the drum that pays out 3000' of 90-ton test cable to raise and lower the cages down the shaft into the mine. The workers signal the operator with a coded series of electric buzzes to tell him to raise or lower the cars. There are no hoist controls in the cars. The operator can tell approximately where the cars are in the shaft by watching a clock-like dial in the engine room. He can tell within a few inches where they are at each level by watching chalk marks on the 12' drum that holds the cable. Once or twice a year they "recalibrate" the cable and put new chalk marks on the drum. Very simple and low tech, but very safe and effective. I spent several hours watching the hoist operation and talking to the operator. It was a tremendous contrast from the highly technical quantum physics research in the labs.

Monday, August 18, 2008

Ely!!!!!

This afternoon we arrived in Ely. It is always exciting driving into Ely. I don't know if it is the anticipation of putting into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, the fact that there is a canoe on every other car, or that it is just such a neat town. Ely is the major jumping off point for the BWCAW. There are dozens of outfitters along the main drag and many more out in the sticks. It just makes me tingle all over.

We are camped at Fall Lake Campground, about 8 miles east of town. We will be here until August 27, when we are scheduled to put into the BWCAW for 15 days. Fall Lake is a major BWCAW entry point. The campground here has been completely renovated since we cruised the loops a few years ago. It has newly paved roads, all new bath houses, tables and fire rings. Most loops have 30A power and a few even have 50A. Ironically, there are no water hookups at the sites, and there is no waste dump in the facility at all. The nearest dump is at the Chamber of Commerce in Ely.

One reason we got here early was to have some work done on my boat. We have stopped at the Spirit of the Wilderness outfitter many times, and the owner Steve claims he can do miracles re-gelcoating the bottom of composite canoes. He can completely patch and re-coat the bottom, adding only 6 oz to the weight of the boat, for about a hundred bucks. Where I come from the materials would cost that much. In the BWCAW, where portages can kill or maim a paddler, every ounce counts. It takes a few days to do the work and allow the resin to cure, so we wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to finish the boat. I dropped the boat off this afternoon. Maybe later I can post some before and after photos.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

North Shore State Parks Whirlwind Tour

On our last full day on the North Shore, we cruised up the shore to check out the Minnesota State Parks along the North Shore. There is a moderately steep escarpment about 150' high along the North Shore, where many streams and rivers cascade down to Lake Superior. There are about a dozen state parks between Duluth and the Canada border, most featuring waterfalls and the Lake Superior shoreline. Many are connected by the Superior Hiking Trail, a long distance hiking trail stretching over 250 miles from Duluth to the Canada border. Some are also connected by the Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a paved multipurpose rail-trail. We thought we would do some short hikes, but we particularly wanted to check out the campgrounds to see if any were good candidates for future trips. Our first stop was Tettegouche State Park which is on the Baptism River. There we hiked to the 60' high High Falls and then Two Steps Falls. The falls were nice, but the river flow is way down. They would be much more impressive during spring runoff. The drive-in campground was likewise unimpressive. It was a long way from the lake shore. It was OK, but nothing to brag about. I guess I'm spoiled by the beautiful campgrounds on the Blue Ridge Parkway. They did have a number of very nice walk-in/paddle-in sites right on the lake shore. We also drove up to Palisade Head, a 250' tall volcanic outcrop that drops straight down to the lake. Pretty impressive. You could see all the way to Wisconsin and the Apostle Islands. Matilda was acting bold, so we kept her on a short leash. Apparently Palisade Head is a good climbing destination. There were several parties of climbers on the cliff when we were there. We lunched at the Caribou River State Wayside on the banks of the Caribou River. Matilda had a big time playing in the cascading water. There was supposed to be a pretty nice waterfall about a mile up the river, but we had a lot of things to do today, so we resisted the temptation to hike to the falls.

We cruised on up the shore to Taconite Harbor. Taconite Harbor, constructed in 1950, was the site of a new town and new harbor, where neither existed previously. The harbor was constructed by building breakwaters across two islands and back to the shore. Taconite, a pelletized iron ore, is shipped out to steel mills on the lower great lakes. Close by is Shroeder and the Cross River. In 1843 Father Frederic Baraga, a priest and missionary from Yugoslavia, was crossing the lake from Madeline Island, Wisconsin when an unexpected storm came up and threatened to sink his small boat. He was blown unharmed to the mouth of a small river, where he erected a small wooden cross to thank God for his deliverance. Thus was named the Cross River.

Next stop was the Temperance River State Park, located at the mouth of, you guessed it, the Temperance River. The Temperance River is one of the longest rivers on the North Shore and is so-named because it has no gravel "bar" at it's mouth. I don't know about that one, but that's what they say. The river features a mini-gorge and swift cascades at the mouth of the river. The drive-in campground is also right on the shore and has some electric sites. Sweet. This was by far the most pleasant campground of the state parks we visited.

The last park we visited, and our turn-around place for this tour, was Cascade River State Park. The Cascade River features a rushing river, falling through a narrow, deep gorge, with wonderful waterfalls and cascades. It also contains old-growth pines and hardwoods. As do most of the parks along the North Shore, it features a number of structures constructed by the CCC during the 1930s. All day we collected rocks for Izaak's memorial, but none from the state parks, of course.

On the way home, Dorcas insisted we buy a pie. I resisted (really!) but of course I caved. The North Shore is famous for its fresh pies. Betty's Pies is the most famous of the pie joints, but we had been told it was overrated, and were directed to the Rustic Inn Cafe at Castle Danger. At the Rustic Inn Dorcas bought an apple caramel pie with pecans. Yummy! Great choice.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Bike to Split Rock Lighthouse

We hauled our bikes (1633 miles so far) more than anything else, so we could bike on the Gitchi-Gami State Trail. The Gitchi-Gami State Trail is a paved multi-purpose trail, that, when completed, will travel 86 miles from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. The trail primarily follows an old railroad bed and abandoned sections of MN highway 61. Currently the longest completed section connects Gooseberry Falls State Park and Beaver Bay, about 13 miles. Today we biked from our camp at Gooseberry Falls to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, where we toured the Split Rock Light Station. The ride was gently rolling, but did contain a few steep hills. During the ride, Lake Superior is never out sight for more than a few minutes. Split Rock Lighthouse is not to be missed. The Minnesota Historical Society manages the site and conducts tours with costumed interpreters. The light was commissioned after a series of brutal storms in 1905 when several dozen ships were lost. It operated until 1969 when it was considered to be obsolete and was decommissioned. Since that time it has been restored to its 1920s appearance. This lighthouse is said to be the most visited lighthouse in the country. I would have thought that was Hatteras. In any case, it was certainly worth the trip. You can tour the inside of the lighthouse and walk up the spiral staircase to view the 3rd order Fresnel lens. The lens mount rides on a bearing consisting of 8 pounds of liquid mercury and is turned by a clockworks mechanism driven by a 250 pound weight. Several times a day a keeper will wind up the mechanism. The lamp is not routinely lit today, but the lens still turns at 6 RPMs. You can also tour the restored keepers house. When the station was built, there was no road serving the north shore and all transportation was by boat. Goods were hauled up an elevated tramway from the lake at the base of the cliff. We stayed until closing time and then biked back to camp. During the ride we saw a whitetail deer with two fawns, still in spots.

Friday, August 15, 2008

Hiking Gooseberry Falls State Park

Today we spent the day hiking around Gooseberry Falls State Park. We hiked on the Gitchi Gummi Trail (not to be confused with the Gitchi-Gami State Trail) which loops about a mile around a bluff overlooking the mouth of the Gooseberry River. From there we hiked up the river to Fifth Falls, a less-visited waterfall a mile or two above the mouth of the Gooseberry. Matilda got to hike off-leash for a bit and had a grand time running up and down the trail and eating the water in the river.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Gooseberry Falls State Park

Following are a few photos from Gooseberry Falls State Park.





Photo of the Week: Dog Watching

When in public places I have always enjoyed discreetly watching other people go by. Matilda has apparently learned the joys of doggie watching. Maybe she is wondering what that fluffy thing is on the other dog's butt.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

The Grand Portage

Today we moved from Two Harbors a whopping 13 miles up the shore to Gooseberry Falls State Park. We had been at Two Harbors for 8 nights and felt it was time for a change. We kinda wanted to visit a Minnesota State Park, but we had several choices depending upon how far up the shore we wanted to go. Gooseberry Falls, Tettegouche, Cascade River, Temperence River and Judge C.R. Magney State Parks are on the North Shore and all have camping. Gooseberry Falls State Park is touted as one of the top ten campgrounds in North America, so we chose it. I don't know, it's OK, but I'm a little disappointed. It's nice, but the sites are small and don't benefit from the million-dollar-view of the lake. The roads are gravel and a bit dusty. And there are a LOT OF PEOPLE. The campground stays full every night. We got here at 9:00 AM opening time and got our choice of three vacating non-reservable sites. I think we actually ended up with one of the nicest of the parks 70 sites. We were able to park the coach nose-in, and we have a large grassy area on our site in which to let Matilda run a bit.

Today was a little rainy and dreary so we postponed some hikes in the park and drove up the North Shore. Our objective was to scout out other state parks and destinations to visit before we leave Lake Superior on Monday. We ended up driving all the way to Grand Marais before stopping. There we had a nice lunch at The Pie Place. We also stopped at the Superior National Forest ranger station there to see about the conditions in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. There is currently no fire ban in the BWCAW, but if there is no rain before we put in two weeks from now, there likely will be a ban. DANG.

After lunch we cruised on up to Grand Portage National Monument. From 1778 until 1802, the North West Company located their headquarters and western supply depot here for business and a summer rendezvous. French and English fur traders or "Voyageurs" would bring their goods from their winter camps in the north west interior. "Pork Eaters" would bring supplies across Lake Superior from Montreal. This place became the meeting place because it was at the end of the Grand Portage. The Grand Portage was the 8.5 mile footpath used to carry goods and boats from Fort Charlotte on the Pigeon River to the shore of Lake Superior, avoiding the rapids and falls along the lower Pigeon River. The Voyageurs carried 90 pound packs; at least two packs at a time, and sometimes 3 or 4 packs at a time! And I thought the single 85-pound food pack I carried in the BWCAW was tough! They have a nifty new visitor's center here that just opened last summer. There is a reconstructed fort and encampment, including the Great Hall, kitchen and canoe warehouse. Costumed interpreters are out talking about how the traders and Indians lived and worked. Pretty neat! The whole park is operated in concert with the Grand Portage Band of the Ojibwe, on whose reservation the park resides. After the park exhibits closed we hiked up Mt. Rose, which overlooks the encampment and hiked a bit on the Grand Portage itself. We didn't hike to Fort Charlotte, and we didn't carry a load.

From Grand Portage one could look across the lake and see Isle Royale National Park, about twenty miles away. Isle Royale is the largest island in Lake Superior and was one of the places we had hoped to visit during this trip. We killed that prospect when we got Matilda: dogs are strictly forbidden on Isle Royale. There is a company that does day trips to Isle Royale from Grand Portage, so we stopped to talk to them. Unfortunately, the lake level has been at an all-time low for the last two years, and the boat they use for day trips cannot get into or out of the harbor. They are doing day trips on a smaller boat once a week on Fridays, but they were booked two weeks out. Some things are just not meant to be.

It was getting late, but we figured we couldn't come this far without heading on up to the border. We drove to the Canadian border, which was actually pretty anticlimactic. We didn't try to cross since we had not brought Matilda's rabies certificate or our passports. We walked into Grand Portage State Park, which features the highest waterfall in Minnesota. The Pigeon River plummets 120' as it forms the international border. It was starting to get dark, so we turned back towards home. We did make a final stop before dark at Judge C.R. Magney State Park to check out their campground. While we didn't get to view it, one highlight of this park is Devil's Kettle waterfall. Here the Brule River splits and half the river drops 50' into the Devil's Kettle and disappears. Nobody knows where it goes. Researchers have dropped yellow balls into the kettle and they have never re-appeared. Very strange.