Cruising Westward Across the UP

We departed Newberry Campground on Wednesday, August 18 and continued west through the UP along M-28.  The drive was scenic and uneventful. We traversed the so-called "Seney Stretch" a long section of M-28 that is as straight as an arrow with no curves for 20 miles.  Jeff Daniels describes the "Seney Stretch" as well as some other places in the eastern UP in this hilarious video, one of a series of videos he produced traveling in his RV in the UP in the dead of winter.  Jeff Daniels UP Tour Webisode #7 - Using The Facilities

Matilda can always tell when we are getting ready to roll and gives us this pitiful forlorn look.

As we approached Marquette, the largest city in the UP, Google Maps suggested bypassing the city on secondary roads to the south.  I vetoed Google Maps' suggestion; I remembered downtown Marquette as being rather quaint and scenic and had no problem enduring a little city traffic as we drove through town.  What I hadn't realized was the massive ongoing construction project and the numerous new roundabouts that had been built through town. Our rig abhors narrow construction corridors and tight traffic circles.  And it was a new route that bypassed that scenic downtown area, so all was for naught. While it was not the route we would have chosen if we had been aware, it was not the worst navigational mistake I have made in the last 24 hours (see previous post).

As we continued driving west from Marquette we met a notable number of Airsteams heading back to the east.  Had Wayne and Lynda passed us and doubled back?  I figured there was a rally somewhere. Sure enough, Dorcas looked online and found an Airstream rally was beginning this day in Marquette.

Airstreams galore

Note fishing pole with lure mail box

The first time we drove this highway in 2009 we broke down west of Marquette in front of Stump's Tavern, necessitating a 180 mile tow.  Stump was a grumpy soul, and I don't think he appreciated our rig parked in his parking lot and blocking his patrons for what turned out to be about 24 hours.  Like we had any choice and could just drive away. At that time Stump's Tavern was for sale, and we were curious if it was still there. When we passed we saw the building still existed, but it was now known as the Snowshoe Inn.  I hate change. 

The former Stump's Tavern

We had made a reservation at Munising Tourist Park for one night and had scored a prime waterfront site overlooking the Lake Superior shore. Our drive from Newberry to Munising was only 62 miles.  We arrived at camp very early in the day, in spite of additional construction delays in Munising, and we had plenty of time to enjoy this wonderful site. This park is one of many town and county parks throughout the UP that are very scenic and reasonably priced.  We had full hookups, meaning water, electricity and sewer were provided at the site.  With 50A service Dorcas could run both air conditioners, both water heaters, dry her hair, cook dinner and do laundry, all at the same time.  It was Heaven.  The rooftop satellite dish was blocked by a large pine tree, but I was able to acquire Dish Network using my backup portable dome.  The only negative was that we were at the far end of the campground and could not receive the complimentary WiFi.  However, our cellular signal was excellent, so all was good.

Our home: Site 79 at Munising Tourist Park

"Dorcas, turn around and enjoy the great view!"

As we travel around the country in our quest to find mild temperatures and fine weather, we often tell folks we follow the pollen season.  This is no more true than in Michigan's UP in late August. 

Goldenrod in full pollen bloom

We hated to leave Munising Tourist Park, but we had miles to go.  We took our time breaking camp and resumed our westward trek towards Minnesota. I had been pondering our fuel situation.  Diesel prices in the UP were out of sight, but I believed we had enough fuel to reach Superior WI, where diesel prices were about $0.40/gal cheaper.  But even though we could make it to Superior, our low fuel warning buzzer would sound off and make our lives miserable for the last hour or so.  Suddenly, a Mobil station appeared on the right that had posted prices about 10 cents cheaper than any other station we had seen in the past week.  By the time I made the decision to stop I was passing the station, and it would require a rather abrupt U-turn to enter the station from the other direction.  As Dorcas gouged holes in the dashboard with her toe nails, I went for it.

Will he make it???

We made the turn and pumped a few gallons. Watch the U-turn here:

Eventually, we arrived in Bessemer MI where we had called ahead and secured two nights at Alpine Campground.  When Dorcas had called she talked to "Inga", who had a heavy east European accent.  When I checked in I asked Inga where she was from and she replied "the Old Country".  I naively asked which old country that was, and she told me she was from Germany. 

I'm not sure what a "PULL TRU" is.  Must be a UP thing. 

My first impressions of Alpine Campground were mixed. Inga informed me that the WiFi was out of service due to a lightening strike.  The repairman was supposed to have come but didn't show.  The rate she charged was a few bucks higher than posted on their web site.  When I asked her about that she was vague and muttered something, perhaps in German, about electricity.  She went on to advise us to use the air conditioning sparingly due to electric company orders.  And then, when I whipped out my credit card, she told me she accepted cash or check only.  OK.  No WiFi, limited power; shades of Newberry Campground, where at least our plastic was good.  However, when Inga escorted us to the site, it was pleasant and situated on nice level grass, with no other campers nearby. 

Our home at Alpine Campground

The Alpine Campground in on the banks of the Black River, which flows out of Wisconsin, then north about 14 miles and empties into Lake Superior.  The Black River National Scenic Byway runs from near our camp though the Ottawa National Forest to Black River Harbor Recreation Area at the mouth of the river.  The river was running very low and it was very rocky and not suitable for paddling, but there were several significant waterfalls along the way, so we made a road trip on our layover day.

We drove north to the end of the road at Black River Harbor and made that our first stop, then doubled back to tour the waterfalls.  

Black River harbor is the only boat harbor operated by the USFS

The Nancy Jean served the Black River Harbor fishing fleet until the 1930s and was one of the last fishing vessels operating in the area.  It was found abandoned nearby and restored and placed on display here.

Black River Harbor

More goldenrod.  Ahh Chuuu!

The beach at Black River Harbor

210 foot bridge over the Black River just above the harbor

The steps to Sandstone Falls were steep up and down, and steep side to side

Sandstone Falls

Sandstone Falls

Sandstone Falls

Sandstone Falls

Potawatomi Falls

Potawatomi Falls

The Black River gorge carves its way through conglomerate formations.  This conglomerate consists of sandstone filled with small igneous rocks. This conglomerate is very difficult and hazardous to walk on!  The small stones are slick and break out very easily!

Conglomerate Falls

Black River

Along the Black River road was the Copper Peak Ski Flying Complex.  We declined their offer to ride up the lift to the top of the mountain and tour the jump for $25.00 each.

This is Big Powderhorn Mountain ski area.  Doesn't look like much of a vertical drop from here.  I would hate to see Little Powderhorn Mountain!  Perhaps there is more to it than we could see. On their web site they claim 9 lifts, 45 trails and 622 feet vertical drop. And they typically get 17 feet of natural snowfall each winter.  That's not too shabby. 

Michigan has a very strong bottle bill.  Ten cents are collected for each beverage bottle sold.  The bottles can then be redeemed at grocery stores for cash or credit. When we go to Michigan we avoid buying deposit beverages in the state, and carry in as many empty bottles from out of state as we can, for redemption there.  It could be a lucrative cottage industry. We sell cans for diesel!  

In an episode of Sienfeld, Newman and Kramer execute "The Michigan Bottle Scam". You can view a clip HERE.

On Saturday August 21 we departed Alpine Campground and Bessemer MI and continued west towards Duluth MN.  Within about 15 minutes we crossed into Wisconsin. 

Wisconsin is glad to see us

When we drive through Ashland WI, we love to stop at the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center just west of town. The facility is operated jointly by the US Forest Service, National Park Service, US Fish & Wildlife Service, Wisconsin Historical Society, UW-Madison Extension, and the Friends of the Center Alliance, Limited.  It has many interesting exhibits, murals and trials and an observation tower atop the building,  

Not my photo: lifted from NGLVC web site

There is plenty of RV parking at the NGLVC in Ashland WI

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DANG!!!!!

Crossing the St. Louis River into Minnesota

Minnesota is glad to see us too.

On Saturday afternoon, after cruising only 117 miles, we checked in at Lakehead Boat Basin, a favorite stop for us when passing through Duluth.  Stay tuned for an important and significant trip update!!!