Denali National Park AK

OK.  For you folks who don't like the pictures, just pass on by.  For others, sit back and enjoy!  This post will be light on narrative and heavy on the photos.  Please excuse all the redundant wildlife and landscape pictures.

More frost heaves on the highway

We left Eagle River on Tuesday July 25 headed north on the Parks Highway towards Denali National Park.  We had been advised to be on the lookout for Wal-Mike's near Trapper Creek.  We found it, and mere words don't do it justice.

I can't imagine where all these "treasures" came from, but it was mostly overpriced.  I did buy a hat though.

This is becoming an ever more common sighting.  You go girl!  But keep your eyes on the road.

We debated driving into Talkeetna on the Talkeetna Spur Road.  I was a little reluctant to go there since it was going to be late when we got to Denali, we had been there before and it was 14 miles in and 14 miles back out.  We did drive in, but later realized we had made a bad decision.  The Alaska Railroad stops there and had just unloaded about 10,000 tourists who like to live dangerously and walk in the street while gawking at the sights.  There was also a lot of motor traffic and no good place to park or turn around.  We ended up on a dead end at the river and had to unhitch the car to get out.  An unexpected and forced unhitchment is never fun.  On a positive note, Dorcas found a bead store and bought some nice beads to add to her stash.

I have been told that Talkeetna was a model setting for the remote Alaskan town in the TV series "Northern Exposure"

I'm not sure if this is a wildlife crossing warning or a menu suggestion

This must be Wal-Mike's Talkeetna store

A view from the Parks Highway

We made it!

We had a reservation for 4 nights at Teklanika campground in Denali National Park.  Teklanika is a little different from the other drive-in campgrounds in the park.  It is located at MP 29.1 on the Denali park road.  There is a gate at Savage River at MP 15 that prevents most privately owned vehicles from traveling past that point.  But, if you are camped at Teklanika, you get a permit to drive past the gate and directly to the campground on the day you arrive, and to return on the day you leave.  Kinda like driving in Yellowstone NP when it is closed to tourists.  The only hitch is you must stay 3 nights minimum at Teklanika.  Boo Hoo!

Our camp at Teklanika CG

The Teklanika River at dusk near camp

Dorcas looking for wildlife on the Teklanika River.  Do you see a moose?

Threatening skies

The Denali park road traverses over 100 miles from the park entrance to Wonder Lake and Kantishna, near the base of the mountain.  One must ride a bus to see the park beyond the gate at Savage River.  There are a number of bus choices: the green buses are the cheapest and is considered to be a shuttle bus, meaning it is intended for basic transportation and interpretive commentary might be limited or non-existent.  Campers at Teklanika can buy a "Tek Pass" which grants transport on the shuttle buses for the duration of your stay.  The tan buses are more like excursion tours and are perhaps more comfortable and have a naturalist aboard.  There are also buses operated by the various lodges that take guests to their accommodations at the end of the road.

We took a bus to Eielson Visitor Center at MP 66 on two separate days.  We traveled on to Wonder Lake in 2011 and there was no point in doing that again.  Following are a load of photos we took, in no particular order.  I won't even attempt to name all the physical features.  My 63 year-old mind is not capable.

There were rest stops with pit toilets about an hour apart on the park road.  Bladder says "Thank you"

Denali is very environmentally conscious employing LP powered vehicles and solar usage at the Visitor Centers.

Dorcas on the bus

A lone grizzly bear on the river bed

Grizzlies galore

Cushy tan buses for the rich folks

We saw a number of caribou.

Trying to stay cool in the river

An impressive bull

Trying to stay cool on the ridge

This guy must be bashful

The park was created in 1917 primarily to save the Dall sheep, which were being decimated by hunters.  The sheep have recovered nicely.  Happy Centennial Denali!

Dall sheep up high

Dall sheep down low

Our destination for both day trips into the park was the Eielson Visitor Center.  Eielson Visitor Center has no external power.  They use solar and hydroelectric to produce electricity.  Also, the building is built into the hill to reduce heat loss and aid in cooling

There is a room inside the visitor center where you can view Denali if it is a clear day.  One stands on one of several marks on the floor (depending on your height) and outlines painted on the window show where Denali and other nearby peaks can be seen.  They do this because Denali is only visible about 1 day out of four and most visitors never get to see the mountain.  On our two visits into the park interior, Denali was nowhere to be seen.

View of Denali.  Not!

Ptarmigan, Alaska's state bird

Dorcas on a trail near Eielson Visitor Center 

This arctic ground squirrel is doing his afternoon yoga

This hefty arctic ground squirrel NEEDS to do his afternoon yoga

What a happy hiker!

Dorcas looking for sheep on the high ground

Sierra Club volunteers doing trail maintenance at Eielson.  Thank you for your service!

On our second day on the bus to Eielson we met a man and his wife with their daughter and grand children from Lewisville NC only a few miles from our house.  We spent time getting to know them, exchanged contact info and vowed to get together when we get home, to share our Alaska experiences.

Back on the bus ... again

Wildlife at Eielson Visitor Center

Fireweed is so-named because it is one of the first flowers to sprout after a fire.  It also predicts when summer begins and ends.  Fireweed blooms on the lower part of the stalk first and as the season progresses from summer to fall the blooms gradually move up the stalk until they reach the top.  When the stalk is in full bloom, it's time to head south.  "When fireweed goes to cotton, summer is soon forgotten" is a native Alaskan saying, meaning it is ready to release its seed pods before the ground freezes.  Another belief is that the height of the fireweed stalk predicts the depth of snow the winter will produce.

Denali fireweed

A stormy sky

Souvenir medallion depicting the benchmark atop Denali

One reason why private vehicles are not allowed.  Buses need to pull off when they meet on the road

At Eielson there is a quilt on display depicting the many faces of Denali NP.  Following are two photos showing parts of that quilt.

Before and after our 4-night stay at Teklanika we tried to secure a campsite at Riley Creek, a campground near the park entrance, but there was no room at the inn.   We had arrived so late the day we checked into Teklanika that we had no time to explore near the park entrance.  We checked out at Teklanika fairly early so we could spend some time exploring the park entrance area.

On our way out from Teklanika I think we caught a glimpse of  Denali, "The Great One"

I think I see the mountain!

Wildlife at the main Denali Visitor Center: marmot, moose and raven

Check out the solar arrays over the windows at the main Denali Visitor Center

The park uses dog sled teams to patrol the park in the winter.  They currently have 33 dogs in their kennel.  We watched a sled dog demonstration and petted all the dogs.  They love visitors.

Mush!

Click HERE to see a video of the sled dog demonstration.

Note the name plaques for retired dogs mounted on the walls

Each year when they name the new pups they are named using a theme.  For example, dogs born in 2008 were all named after volcanoes and 2013 were named for knots.  In 2017,  for the 100th birthday of the park, the new pups were named Happy, Cupcake, Party and Piñata.

I hope Matilda doesn't get jealous!

Alaskan huskies are a distinct breed but not a breed recognized by any kennel club.  These dogs are bred for specific traits that enable them to withstand the harsh winter and haul a heavy load.  Such traits include a dense coat, long legs and big paws for traveling over the snow and a bushy tail to wrap over their face on cold winter nights.  Racing sled dogs are bred for different traits than working dogs and are smaller and faster.  Both varieties live to run!

Snowshoe hare

The Alaska Railroad has a station in the park.  This particular train was made up of excursion cars operated by the various cruise ship lines that serve the park.

Passengers disembarking from a train excursion to the park

Buses awaiting the train passengers

Click HERE to see the train leaving the station.

We spent most of our last day and evening at the Denali entrance area.  I think we saw what we wanted to see there and headed north on the Parks Highway towards Fairbanks at about 8:00 pm.   We only drove about 4 miles before we found this great spot overlooking the Nenana River gorge.  Another great camp!

Our camp on the Nenana River Gorge