Sunday, August 15, 2021

Sault Saint Marie MI

 Our drive from Wolverine to Sault Sainte Marie was uneventful and relatively short.  We logged only 100 miles.  We are scheduled to be here for 6 nights and will attend the Michigan State Rally of the Newmar Kountry Klub, our manufacture's owners club.  

On this day we crossed the Mackinaw Bridge, the "Mighty Mac". The Mackinaw Bridge crosses the Straits of Mackinac and connects Michigan's lower and upper peninsulas.  The Mac is a very impressive structure.  It was completed in 1957.  It has the longest span between anchorages of any suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere, and the total shore-to-shore distance is 5 miles. The maximum clearance to the water below is 155 feet. Driving across the bridge is a little daunting. The bridge authority provides a service for those psychologically unable to drive their vehicle across the bridge.

Crossing the "Mighty Mac"

I happen to be a bridge nut.  I chose to become a civil engineer because of my fascination with bridges.  However, after taking my first course in structures at NC State University, my desire to design bridges was diminished.  Consequently, I changed my specialty to environmental engineering.  So bear with me as I indulge:

Facts and figures (Ref: Wikipedia):

  • The Mackinac Bridge is currently a toll bridge on Interstate 75. Prior to the coming of I-75, the bridge carried US Highway 27 (US 27). It is one of only three segments of I-75 that are tolled, the others being the American half of the International Bridge near Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, and Alligator Alley in Florida. The current toll is $4.00 for automobiles and $5.00 per axle for trucks. The Mackinac Bridge Authority raised the toll in 2007 to fund a $300 million renovation program, which would include completely replacing the bridge deck.
  • Every Labor Day, the bridge is open to walkers for the Mackinac Bridge Walk.
  • Painting of the bridge takes seven years, and when painting of the bridge is complete, it begins again. The current painting project began in 1999 and was expected to take 20 years to complete because the lead-based paint needs to be removed, incurring additional disposal requirements.
  • The bridge celebrated its 150 millionth vehicle crossing on September 6, 2009.
  • Length from cable bent pier to cable bent pier: 7,400 feet.
  • Total width of the roadway: 54 feet.
  • Two outside lanes: 12 feet wide each
  • Two inside lanes: 11 feet wide each
  • Width of stiffening truss in the suspended span: 68 feet.
  • Depth of stiffening truss: 38.1 feet.
  • Height of the roadway at mid-span: approximately 200 feet above water level.
  • Vertical clearance at normal temperature:
155 feet at the center of the main suspension span.
135 feet at the boundaries of the 3,000 feet wide navigation channel.
  • Construction cost: $99.8 million (equivalent to $696 million in 2018.
  • Height of towers above water: 552 feet.
  • Max. depth of towers below water: 210 feet.
  • Depth of water beneath the center of the bridge, 250 feet.
  • Main cables:
Number of wires in each cable: 12,580
Diameter of each wire: 0.196 inches
Diameter of each cable: 24.5 inches
Total length of wire in main cables: 42,000 miles
  • Total vehicle crossings, 2005: 4,236,491 (average 11,608 per day)
  • Speed limit: 45 miles per houfor passenger cars, 20 miles per hour for heavy trucks. Heavy trucks are also required to leave 500 feet spacing ahead.
Current bridge conditions and live web cams can be seen HERE

A view from web cam


Sault Ste. Marie (population 14,144) is the second-most populated city in the Upper Peninsula. Sault Ste. Marie was settled as early as 1668, which makes it Michigan's oldest city and among the oldest cities in the United States. Located at the northeastern edge of the Upper Peninsula, it is separated by the St. Marys River from the larger Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario (population 73,368). The two are connected by the Sault Ste. Marie International Bridge, which represents the northern terminus of Interstate 75.  Ironically, this is the first time we have spent the night in Sault Ste. Marie MI, but we have spent the night in Sault Ste. Marie ON CA on at least three previous trips. 



The city name was derived from the French term for the nearby rapids, which were called Les Saults de Sainte Marie. Sainte Marie (Saint Mary) was the name of the river and Saults referred to the rapids.



We stayed at Aune Osborne Campground, owned and operated by the city of Sault Ste. Marie


Our home at Aune Osborne Campground

Dorcas and I have discovered and love Popeye's Spicy Cajun chicken sandwiches. Shortly after arriving in Sault Ste. Marie we had a craving and did a Goole search, and were surprised to find a Popeye's restaurant only 2.4 miles from our camp.  When we routed to the store we found it was across the river in Canada, and it would require an international border crossing to get to it.  DANG!  What's this world coming to when you have to drive to Canada to get a Cajun chicken sandwich?

Gull's eye view of our campsite


Sault Ste. Marie is at the eastern end of Lake Superior.  All freighter traffic entering or leaving Lake Superior must pass by our camp site.  We saw lots of freighters. 


Aune Osborne Campground




On Friday we took a locks tour. 


Dorcas and I played a game of checkers while waiting to board our boat.  Neither of use has played checkers in as long as we can remember. Dorcas is no fun with board games.  She gave up for no good reason and intentionally let me jump all her remaining men.  


Aerial view of hydroelectric plant

This is the the Cloverland Electric Cooperative Hydroelectric Plant.  This plant receives water from above the Sault Ste Marie falls and can produce 36 megawatts of power.  Construction was completed in 1902, and at the time of completion, the plant was the second largest hydro facility next to Niagara Falls.  The hydro plant is constructed of red sandstone which was excavated from the power canal. The plant is a quarter-mile long, 80 feet wide, and has 74 horizontal shaft turbines.

Note the artistic lighthouse motif





The MacArthur Lock on the left and the Poe Lock on the right looking upbound

I am also a lock nut (isn't that a type of fastener?) so please indulge me again. There are currently 2 American locks operating, the MacArthur Lock and the Poe Lock. The locks pass an average of 10,000 ships per year, despite being closed during the winter from January through March, when ice shuts down shipping on the Great Lakes. The winter closure period is used to inspect and maintain the locks.  

The MacArthur Lock, built in 1943, is 800 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 29.5 feet deep.  This is large enough to handle ocean-going vessels ("salties") that must also pass through the smaller locks in the Welland Canal at Lake Erie. 

The original Poe Lock, at 800 feet long and 100 feet wide, was the largest in the world when completed in 1896. The lock was re-built in 1968 to accommodate larger ships, after the Saint Lawrence Seaway opened and made passage of such ships possible to the Great Lakes. It is now 1,200 feet long, 110 feet wide, and 32 feet deep. It can take ships carrying 72,000 short tons of cargo. The Poe is the only lock that can handle the large 1000' lake freighters used on the upper lakes. 

A new lock is currently under construction and is slated to be completed by 2030. Groundbreaking for the new lock project was held on June 30, 2009. The lock will be equal in size to the Poe Lock and will provide much needed additional capacity for the large lake freighters. The new lock replaces two locks, the Davis Lock and the Sabin Lock which were obsolete and used infrequently. 


This image is an artist rendering showing the currently unnamed and uncompleted "super lock" on the left and the existing Poe and MacArthur locks on the right.



A sister boat to ours


Entering the MacArthur Lock


Dorcas!  Look this way!


Our fearless skipper

We did this tour once before in 2014. On that excursion we went upstream through the American Soo Locks and returned downstream through the Canadian locks, which are much smaller and serve exclusively pleasure and tourist vessels.  On this trip we were not able to pass through the Canadian locks.  Very disappointing!  The Canadian government closed those locks to US vessels earlier this year, presumably due to Covid concerns. Ironically, the closure was announced just one week after the US ended the Keystone Pipeline project, and the Canadians still allow US paddlers, i.e. kayaks and canoes to use the locks.  Go figure.



The river drops 21 feet over 3/4 mile at the Sault rapids, hence the need for the locks



We enjoyed a lunch at The Antlers restaurant.  It felt as though we might BE the lunch at The Antlers restaurant.


Moose Drool is one of my favorite beers.  Moose drool is not desirable at your  dining table.




How many RVers does it take to erect a circus tent?


The ladies helped too



A 1997 Newmar London Aire, a very rare vintage model



Just downstream from our campsite was the ferry to Sugar Island.  It takes vehicles of all kinds



An avian squatter at our campsite

We are enjoying some fine cool weather in the UP.  The last few mornings were in the low 50s, but it is warming.  Following are some current temperatures on this morning:




Back home in NC it is just plain hot!



We will be in Ely MN in about 1 1/2 weeks, where it is downright frosty!





Our Michiganer friends travel in comfort.




And they bring fudge!!!!



On Saturday we toured the town of Sault Ste. Marie, and we bought a ticket to the Tower of History, a 210' concrete observation tower overlooking the river. The Tower of History was built in 1968 by the Catholic Church as the Shrine of the Missionaries. The Shrine was meant to be part of a larger complex which would have featured exhibits about the early Missionaries such as Bishop Baraga. A community center and a new Church were also planned. The Church later cut the project in favor of other endeavors, and the Shrine of the Missionaries was donated to the Sault Historic Sites in 1980. It has been operated as the Tower of History ever since.  The following photos are from atop The Tower of History.  










A view of downtown Sault Ste. Marie and the Tower of History



At another campground on the way to town we spotted a Country Coach "Veranda" model.  The Veranda was a radical design that featured a wall panel that dropped down and out of the side of the coach to form a raised open patio.  It didn't prove to be very popular, and very few Verandas were produced.  Its cost of development and production, combined with a general economic downturn around 2009, likely led to the demise of Country Coach Corporation.

Tomorrow we move about 65 miles west to Newberry MI for three nights.  We hope to do some paddling while we are there before continuing west once more 

Sunday, August 8, 2021

Petoskey MI

 On Saturday we drove about 25 miles over to Petoskey Michigan on Little Traverse Bay at Lake Michigan.  Petoskey is a quaint coastal resort community with a population of about 6,000 folks.  The last time we were in Petoskey was in August 2009 when we stayed at Hearthside Grove Luxury Motorcoach Resort, a very high end ownership resort.  During that visit they were filming a new promotional video for the resort and asked if we would mind being in it.  Of course we said yes.  DUH!  You can read about that visit HERE.  The next January we were at the Tampa RV Supershow and saw the video playing on a TV in a 2 million dollar Prevost conversion.  You can read about that encounter HERE. 






The Little Traverse History Museum is housed in the former depot for the now defunct Chicago and West Michigan Railway, which served the area in the late 1800s. Unfortunately the museum was closed on Sundays. DANG!


We are seeing a little early fall color


Downtown Petoskey



Petoskey is famous for Petoskey stones, the state stone of Michigan.  From Wikipedia:

A Petoskey stone is a rock and a fossil, often pebble-shaped, that is composed of a fossilized rugose coral, Hexagonaria percarinata. Such stones were formed as a result of glaciation, in which sheets of ice plucked stones from the bedrock, grinding off their rough edges and depositing them in the northwestern (and some in the northeastern) portion of Michigan's lower peninsula. In those same areas of Michigan, complete fossilized coral colony heads can be found in the source rocks for the Petoskey stones.  Petoskey stones are found in the Gravel Point Formation of the Traverse Group. They are fragments of a coral reef that was originally deposited during the Devonian period. When dry, the stone resembles ordinary limestone but when wet or polished using lapidary techniques, the distinctive mottled pattern of the six-sided coral fossils emerges. It is sometimes made into decorative objects. Other forms of fossilized coral are also found in the same location.


Dorcas bought a set of earrings made of Petoskey Stones.  I bought a small polished slab onto which I intend to attach a magnet and put on the fridge.

My Petoskey Stone




Dorcas and I enjoyed some brews at Beards Brewery, close to the waterfront, then staggered back to the car and headed back to camp.  The best (and only) restaurant in Wolverine is the Thirsty Sturgeon on the bank of the Sturgeon River.  We had planned to stop in there for dinner, but when we arrived the wait was over 45 minutes, so we decided to head back to camp and make our own dinner. DANG!



Tomorrow we continue north to Sault Sainte Marie where we will spend 6 nights and attend an NKK rally.  

Saturday, August 7, 2021

Paddling the Sturgeon River

Our drive north up I-75 from Dearborn was uneventful.  We took on 77 gallons of fuel at the TA TravelCenter in Saginaw.  We arrived in Wolverine MI and set up at Sturgeon Valley Campground in the late afternoon after driving 275 miles through most of Michigan's lower peninsula.  



Our location: the big picture

The campground is a bit like a farm.  They had ducks, geese, rabbits and goats.



These billies were only 8 weeks old

We are spending three nights at Sturgeon Valley.  That leaves us 2 full days to do fun stuff.  On our first layover day we paddled the Sturgeon River.  We made a plan to put in at a public access on Trowbridge road and take out at another public access at Rondo Road.  When you are not traveling with other paddlers, setting a shuttle is often a challenge. But we did have options. First, the owner of the campground can help you spot a car. Second, we are carrying a bike and the distance and route for a bike shuttle were very doable.  Third, the Sturgeon River runs right by the campground, and there were a number of other camping parties that had boats.  Other paddlers are usually very friendly and helpful.  I struck up a conversation with a couple of guys from Kalamazoo, and they agreed to help us spot our car at the take-out. COOL!

Dorcas lounging at the put-in

The Sturgeon River is said to be the fastest river in Michigan.  It doesn't have any serious obstacles or rapids, but it does move on. It rained 1 1/2 inches the night before, so we figured there would be a lot of flow. Matilda is getting on up in years, and sometimes it is hard to get her moving and for her to get in and out of the boat. Since we had never paddled this river before, and weren't sure what to expect, we decided to leave her at home.  I miss my river dog!!!!




Low bridge!!!




Taking a break on a gravel bar





As you can see below, we paddled 10.39 miles, taking a total of about 3 1/2 hours with about 45 minutes for breaks.   It was a good day on the river. 


I think tomorrow we might drive to Petoskey and be regular tourists.