Thursday, August 6, 2015

Doing the Tourist Thing: The Wisconsin Dells


As we come into town, we think, "Do we really want to be here?"

We have driven through Wisconsin near the Dells, dozens of times, but have never stopped before ... til now.  It is one of those places we usually try to avoid, but sooner or later you just gotta go.  Kinda like Graceland.  Sure enough, it was a crass, over-commercialized, tacky tourist trap.  It is probably like Disneyland for a 6-year old, but I don't see the appeal for a mature adult.  There is a central business district with a narrow street that is like downtown Gatlinburg.  Then there is a parkway out of downtown that is like Pigeon Forge.  The worst of both worlds.  There are water parks, roller coasters, upside down jumbled mansions, Ripley's Believe It or Not, fortune tellers, more water parks, Roman amphitheaters, tee shirt shops, a life sized Trojan horse, human slingshot aerial thrill rides, bungee slingshot rideie things, more tee shirt shops and more water parks.

While all those things were a site to behold and somewhat interesting in their own right, that was not why we went to the Dells.  I wanted to ride the "Ducks"!  Before all this amusement park crap was built, the Dells was a scenic destination to experience the unique geologic features on this section of the Wisconsin River.  In 1946 the Original Wisconsin Ducks were first launched in the Dells.  The Ducks were WWII surplus amphibious vehicles.

Duck Vitals:
  • 31' long, 8' wide, weighs 7 tons 
  • Originally powered by a 270HP GMC gas engine, most have been modified to a 115HP Cummins diesel.
  • For land travel: 10 forward speeds, 2 reverse speeds, 4 or 6 wheel drive, 50 mph
  • For water travel: 21" propeller, 6 knots
  • Produced by GMC from 1942 until 1945
For more information on Duck origins and history click here.  This is cool stuff!

We arrived in town about noon and were hungry.  Soon we saw a delivery car for Moose Jaw Pizza and Brewing Company, and we just had to go there.  The food was overpriced and the pizza was just fair, but it was worth it to see the delivery cars.

We saw these guys driving around town, so we just had to go to the Moose Jaw

Dorcas has new antlers!

After lunch we went to buy tickets for our ride on the Ducks.  The lady at the ticket counter said we could buy tickets for any other attraction at half price.  The Ducks toured the so-called lower Dells, a section of the river below the dam.  There was a boat ride that tours the upper Dells, and included a section we had paddled a few days before.  What the heck; it's only money, so we bought tickets for an upper boat tour.

We did the ducks first and that was a blast!  I would do it again if we find our way back here.  The route was about 8 miles and 1 hour, and we did several "splashes".  We also toured some of the wooded park land in the area.

The boat tour was OK, but I'd skip it next time.  It took us to several named features on the river, namely Stand Rock and Witches Gulch, where we got off the boat to tour the features.  There were boardwalks and paved paths at both places and a cheesy snack bar and gift shop.  The tour lasted about 2 hours and covered about 11 miles.




The "Ducks" graveyard



On the Wisconsin River

Another way to travel

Another Duck hitting the beach

Hitting the water

Through the woods

They use Ducks for shuttle buses around town.  I doubt these are still amphibious

Wisconsin Dells Ducks ride

Here are the Cambrian limestone bluffs that made the Dells famous

Meeting another tour boat like ours

Witches Gulch

Stand Rock

Several times during the tour the guide mentioned the jumping German shepherd at Stand Rock.  I expected to see the dog jump from some great height into the river.  That would be cool.  Instead the shepherd jumped a 5' gap between Stand Rock and the adjacent cliff.  Not so cool.  The handler pitched a dog biscuit from the cliff, and the dog looked back like "What?  You want me to jump over there?"  Then he pitched another biscuit, and the dog jumped.  He coaxed him back with yet another biscuit.  I don't know if they ever lost a dog, but there were 4 up on the hill this day.  This event celebrates photographer H.H. Bennett, who explored the area in the 1890s and made photos of his young son Ashley making the same leap.  That photograph was famous for proving Bennett's invention of the instant shutter and his stop-action photography technique, at a time where most photos required an exposure of 30 seconds or more.



Historical graffiti.  This would get you a $1000 fine if you did it today



Dorcas in Witch's Gulch

Want a $4 soda?  There was a snack bar and gift shop at each of our two stops on the boat tour.





Our kindred spirits.  I hope they weren't cursing us, as we often curse the tour boats.

Wisconsin Dells Boat Tour


Wednesday, August 5, 2015

Paddling on the Wisconsin River

We have been on the road for almost 3 weeks but have not hit the water ... until today.  Yesterday we extended our stay at Buffalo River Camping Resort for an additional 3 nights.  That gives us a home through the weekend, always a concern when traveling in the summer without long term reservations.  It also gave us some time to do some paddling and sight seeing at a more leisurely pace.

Today we drove about 35 miles to the Wisconsin Dells to paddle a section of the Wisconsin River in the Upper Dells.  The Wisconsin Dells is both the name of a town and a particular region of the Wisconsin River.  We have driven by the cut-off to the Dells almost every year since 1997, but have never bothered to stop.  We had been told it was a gaudy tourist trap, much like Gatlinburg, and they were right.  However, the Wisconsin River near the Dells is very scenic, albeit clogged with motor boats, jet skis, tour boats and "ducks".

We chose a section of the river where we could paddle upstream in an oxbow around Blackhawk Island, then turn down stream on the Wisconsin River.  After negotiating "the Narrows" we would loop back into the oxbow and return to our starting point.  "Look Ma, no shuttle!"  Very cool.  The literature suggested the Narrows could be very treacherous at high water, but there was no problem today.  We had also been warned about heavy boat traffic and fast, rude boaters, producing heavy wakes.  While there was some traffic, it was less than expected, and we had no problems.

It turned out to be a fairly quick trip.  We were on the water for only a little over 2 hours and paddled just a little over 3 miles.  We finished so quickly, we did not eat the lunch we prepared.  After loading the boat, we cruised the tourist strip, then found a quiet town park where we ate our sandwiches and cookies.  Before returning home we hit the local Walmart for some groceries.


Our put-in on the Wisconsin River

Our route on the Wisconsin River



Myron's usual view of the river


Cold Water Canyon on the Wisconsin River


These are Wisconsin Dells ducks, but not "THE Wisconsin Dells Ducks"

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Signs of the Times


Campers can be an expressive lot.  Many disply signs on their camp sites to express their feelings or views.  We carry a sign that displays our names and home state, but no particular message.  Here are some signs we found at our camp at Buffalo Lake Camping Resort in Montello WI.  There are two common themes.  One group says "Let's party!"  While the grumps say "Stay away from me!"









This sign starts with a Christian message, but then changes its tune


'Nuff said?


There is no shortage of Scandinavians in Wisconsin

Hopefully the message here is " Come sit and visit for a spell"

Quote of the Week

Quote of the Week:

The Definition of an RVer

n.  One who drives a $500,000 motor coach, towing a $50,000 automobile, looking for a free place to park.

I don't know anyone like this.  Do you?

Montello WI

We found ourselves in the unusual position of having two weeks free and no set plans for that period.  In the prophetic words of Meatloaf " Do ya know what it's like? All revved up with no place to go."  After leaving Madison on August 2, our next firm destination was Elk River MN on August 17 for a motor home service appointment.  Two weeks with nowhere to go!  What to do?  A little research found Buffalo Lake Camping Resort in Montello WI, about 65 miles north of Madison.  Buffalo Lake is relatively close the Wisconsin Dells, which we have never toured and close to several potential paddles.   It is also a Passport America member, meaning half-price camping.  The park seemed to have positive on-line reviews.  So, we called and reserved for 4 nights, and off we went.

On the road.  See the shiny new boat?  Life is good.
We arrived at Buffalo Lake Camping Resort without incident, and they assigned us site #51.  It was a terribly hot day, so we hooked up to power right away, as we usually do, so we could run the A/C.  We have an Electrical Management System (EMS) which monitors the condition of the incoming power and cuts us off if it detects conditions that are out of spec and could damage our 120 VAC system.  The EMS showed clean power, but when the A/C came on, the voltage dropped to 102 VAC and shut us down.  Not good!  While shut down and under no load the pedestal voltage rose back to 120 VAC, so the EMS re-connected us and the A/C came back on.  Then the voltage dropped again, and cut us off again.   This continued for several cycles, before I disconnected from the pedestal.  It was certainly no good for our electrical system.  I hooked into another box on the same pedestal, but the same condition existed.  Finally I unhooked again and turned or the generator so we could cool the coach, and then hiked up to the office to report the problem.  It turned out that the park had been upgrading their electrical system over the summer, but had finished for the season and had stopped before finishing the pedestal at our site.  Using a 30' 30 amp extension cord I carry, we were able to reach another pedestal on another site that had the improved service.  We are probably the only ones who have ever hooked up to this pedestal who have such an EMS.  Consequently, others were likely unknowingly operating their rigs at low voltage, perhaps damaging their equipment, and never reported a problem.  All is well now, and everyone is happy and cool.  On 30 amp service running both A/Cs is iffy.  It might work, but if the water heater comes on or if we use the microwave, it could trip the breaker on the pedestal.  Thankfully after the sun lowered, temps dropped and we were much cooler the rest of the week.

We had originally signed up at Buffalo Lake for 4 nights, meaning a Thursday check out.  We currently had no home for the upcoming weekend.  Good camp sites on a summer weekend in the upper Midwest are sometimes hard to find.  Kinda like in the winter in Florida.  We decided it would be nice to stay here through the weekend.  It was a nice place, and there were still things we wanted to do in the area.  Buffalo Lake had a 4-night maximum on the Passport America discount, so I figured we probably couldn't re-up at that rate.  But I marched down to the office anyway to negotiate.  The good news is our site was still available for the weekend.  The bad news is she wouldn't give me the Passport America rate.  She did offer the Good Sam rate, which represented a 10% discount.  I countered with 3 nights for the price of 2, representing a 33% discount and she agreed.  That's almost as good as the Passport rate.  It's fun dealing with a family owned camp ground.  We are now set through the weekend and a Sunday check out.  Life is still good.



There is an abandoned granite quarry in downtown Montello.  The city has installed pumps and created five artificial waterfalls that drop back into the lake.  At night the falls are all illuminated.  Pretty cool.





Now, off to have some fun!

Sunday, August 2, 2015

Madison WI

We departed Shipshewana shortly after noon on Sunday.  Our destination was Blackhawk Valley Campground near Rockford IL, about 250 miles away.  We discovered this park when we stayed there in September 2014.  It is very nice, and it is also a Passport America member park, meaning half price camping for the Whitleys.  Several other attendees of the rally were headed to the same park, and a few were caravaning.  We would rather not caravan with others if we can help it.  We prefer to travel at our own pace and stop when we wish, without feeling beholding to others.  We worked hard to avoid the central Chicago area and the inevitable toll roads, and we were largely successful.  We bought 76 gallons of diesel near Joliet IL for $3.39/gallon (YEAH!).  GasBuddy rocks!

We arrived at our camp well before dark. At least 4 other parties from our CCI rally were already here.  After we got set up we joined George and Irene, and Jack and Mary Lou for happy hour.

About 10:00 Monday morning we departed for our next primary destination, Madison WI, to attend "FMCA's 92nd Family Reunion; Motorhome Showcase "Escape to Wisconsin"".  After a short jaunt of only about 83 miles we were parked in Lot N at the Alliant Energy Center, only about 2 miles from the capitol in downtown Madison.  We would be dry camping at this event, meaning we would be camping without the benefit of electric, water and sewer hook-ups.  That's fine; we boon dock all the time, but this week it was HOT!  We could have paid $175 for 30 amp electric service, but they wouldn't turn on the juice until sometime on Tuesday.  Plus with 30 amp service we might only be able to run just on air conditioner.  Plus we would have had to park in the holding area Monday night, then move to our assigned site the next day.  We have an excellent working generator that craves use, and that will power our 2 air conditioners, and then some.  In the end we were comfortable, using our generator for a total of about 23 hours and using only about 12 gallons of diesel, for a cost significantly less than $175.  There were slightly less than 2000 coaches attending the convention, a smaller number than most past conventions.

The convention didn't officially start until Wednesday afternoon, so we had some time to explore Madison.  We visited Rutabaga Paddlesports, the premier canoe dealer in the upper Midwest.  We spent quite a bit of time talking with Darren, the owner of the company, and of course, we bought a new boat.  We last visited Rutabaga in September 2012, on our way home from the Boundary Waters, and guess what?  We bought a new boat.  Dorcas says we can't ever go back to Rutabaga again.

Ho. Ho. Ho. Christmas comes in July.  Our new Nova Craft Prospector 15

The convention featured hundreds of seminars with 12 seminar rooms running all day long for 3 1/2 days.  Seminars covered a myriad of topics:  Topics included RV technical, engines and transmission, generators, RV life style, health and fitness, games and so on.  Many seminars we had attended before, but some topics were worth attending again and some were new.  Dorcas and I mostly attended seminars separately, because there were conflicting topics we wanted to attend, or because we had different interests.  They also had Pickleball courts set up, so I played for about 2 hours each morning and a few afternoons, while Dorcas attended morning exercise classes.

There was also a big exhibition hall where hundreds of vendors were hawking their wares.  We dropped a few coins on a Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), a refrigerator monitoring/control system that turns the fridge off when the unit is out of level and the boiler is overheating, to prevent fatal damage, and a towed vehicle braking monitor that will alert us when the towed vehicle auxiliary brakes are engaged.

We also attended a posh event at Monona Terrace which involved free food, beer, wine and entertainment, sponsored by a large RV dealer, RVOne Superstores.  Monona Terrace was designed in 1938 by Frank Lloyd Wright, a native of Madison, as gift to the city.  It acts as a visual and physical link between the state capitol building and Lake Monona.  It was finally constructed in the mid-nineties, decades after Wright's death.  Originally designed to contain municipal offices, it was ultimately built as a major convention center.

We also toured the Wisconsin State Capitol.  The capitol building is a very impressive structure built in the shape of a cross centered by a 265' granite dome covering the rotunda.  Each of the four wings house a major component of the government: both chambers of the Wisconsin legislature, the Wisconsin Supreme Court and the Office of the Governor.  We were able enter each chamber except for the Supreme Court, which was being renovated,  Much of its art and carvings are adorned with the Wisconsin state mascot, the badger, a ferocious little guy.


A view from above the rotunda

Crest showing the state mascot, the badger, and the state motto "Forward"

In the legislative chamber

Legislative chamber showing the public gallery

View towards Monona Terrace and Lake Monona


Badgers were everywhere!




Madison has a very active cycling community.  There are tons of bike trails and many streets are bike friendly.  In the downtown area there were public-use cycles.

Finally we visited the Henry Vilas Zoo.  It is a fairly small zoo and the animals were often hard to find, but it was free.

At the zoo


The Tundra Buggy, near the polar bear exhibit

All the animals on the carousel were zoo animals

Feeding the goats



Strangely, we found no badgers at the zoo.  Go figure.

We departed the Alliant Energy Center shortly before noon Sunday and continued our northward trek.