Flashback Friday: BWCAW, The Whitley Way

In September 2013, in response to many questions I have had from friends about the Boundary Waters, I posted an essay on the Whitley Way of doing the BWCAW.  It is long and detailed.  If you are not an outdoor enthusiast or camping gear head, you might want to pass.

If you think this is your cup of the, click here.

Enjoy. We'll be back online in about a week.

An Exciting Drive Across Southwestern Colorado or "You can't get there from here"

It seemed like a good plan at the time. We would depart Fountain CO and head west towards Westcliffe CO and camp at Alvarado CG in the San Isabel National Forest, which looked like a very nice site.  From there it was only a short hop south (or so we thought) to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve for a short day visit. And then a fairly long drive across southwest Colorado to Durango where we would spend the next 7 nights.  So much for good plans.

On Monday July 30 we departed the Colorado Springs KOA at about 7:30 am, pretty early for the Whitley's. We drove CO 115 south to Penrose and CO 96 west to Westcliffe and finally south on CO 69 to a cutoff to Alvarado Campground. The campground was about 5 miles off CO 69 west on an unpaved local road.  Today's drive was largely uneventful.  We didn't have a reservation at Alvarado, but the reservation web site suggested there would be plenty of sites, and we had arrived before noon.  Site No. 12 was vacant and looked inviting, so we made camp.  Alvarado has no hookups, but at EL 9030' the temps were cool, and we didn't miss the air conditioner.  It was every bit as nice as we expected.

After such a busy week in Colorado Springs it was nice to have a whole day in a quiet forest site to do nothing.  Amazingly we had a great 4G data signal, so I was able to work on some internet chores, including updating this journal.

Our camp at Alvarado Campground 

Our site had a clear view of the sky, so satellite TV reception and solar gain were very good.  In fact I was seeing peak solar gains of over 28 amp-hours, the highest I have ever observed from our 400 watt solar array.





Overnight the temperatures plummeted to 42 degrees, the lowest we have seen on this trip. Altitude good!





On Wednesday our destination was the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve.  As the crow files it was only about 20 miles from our camp to the visitor center.  Unfortunately, we are not crows. cannot fly and had not carefully studied our route.  In order to get to our destination we would have to loop well east and south of our destination and then loop back north.  Google maps predicted a distance of 96 miles.  Oh well, that's the way it goes.  We're retired. We have nothing but time and every day is Saturday. We headed south on CO 69 and soon discovered our intended route included a series of unpaved rural county roads: CR 555, CR 570 and Pass Creek Road connecting Gardner and US 160.  We were skeptical, but hey, Google maps would never lead us astray.  Right?  When we got to the right turn onto County Road 555 there was a sign indicating "To US 160".  It was an unpaved road, but it looked like a decent road and the Colorado DOT suggested we go that way, so why not?  What could go wrong?  All was well until about 10 miles in when we came across a big sign across the road saying "Road Closed".  CRAP!!!  Why would the sign off the paved road direct us this way to US 160,  if the road was closed 10 miles in?  We had 2 options: turn around and backtrack to CO 69, or ignore the sign, hope for the best and continue on into the abyss.  There were tracks around the sign, indicating others had gone that way.   However, Dorcas vehemently vetoed the 2nd option.  Thankfully there was a place there to turn around, so we unhitched the Pilot and turned the beast around.

Road Closed?????   WHAT????

About that time a pickup truck pulling a large farm trailer came up from the way we had come.  The lady driving the truck had hoped to take the same route we had.  I talked with her and she told me the road had been closed because it had washed out after the recent fires.  She had seen a road grader in the area the day before and had hoped the road had been reopened.   She was going basically the same way we were and said we could follow her.  We would need to backtrack to CO 69 and Gardner and continue south on CO 69.  There was another gravel cutoff to US 160 about 15 miles south of Gardner that she was going to take.

It is a dusty place following a motor home on a gravel road

Looking back from our road-closed turnaround

We made it back to the paved highway and continued to follow the lady in the pickup back to the south.  When she turned right onto the next unpaved cutoff to US 160, a road grader was sitting at the entry.  I said that was a good sign, but Dorcas proclaimed it was NOT a good sign.  We had made it back to a nice State paved highway, so... we (Dorcas) decided we should continue south on CO 69 to pick up US 160 at Walsenburg, which is all the way back at I-25 (See map above.  It was a much longer route, but our luck had not been running very good this day, and I suppose it was best not to push it.  In hindsight the best strategy would have been to skip Alvarado CG altogether and driven directly from Colorado Springs down I-25 to Walsenburg, and then cut over to Great Sand Dunes National Park.  But then we wouldn't have enjoyed the great site at Alvarado CG and experienced such a great adventure.  When served lemons, make lemonade. In the end the 20 miles, as the crow flies, and the 96 mile Google route ended up being 157 miles to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve.

You can't drive anywhere west of Denver without summiting a pass

Approaching Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve

Panoramic view

We don't know these people; they were just there hogging the sign.

We do know this guy

GSDNP has a pretty neat Visitor Center

Dorcas on a trail near the Visitor Center

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve encompasses 233 square miles in the San Luis Valley and the San de Cristo mountain range.  At 750 feet it contains the tallest sand dunes in North America.  The dune field covers an area of about 30 square miles.  Click HERE to read a discussion on how the dunes were formed.

In addition to hiking, sand boarding and sand sledding are popular activities on the dunes.  Sleds and boards can be rented outside the park.

Kinda reminds me of a huge ant hill

We tried a hike on the dunes, but the sand was very hot and Matilda quickly decided she wanted nothing to do with it.  Dorcas agreed. The sand was also very soft and walking on it took a lot of effort.

The dunes can be a barren place

After a short visit on the dunes we made a lunch in the coach and bugged out.  We still had many miles to go before reaching our destination this day, Durango CO.

The coach engine temperature had been running higher than normal this day, peaking at 210-215 degrees.  Technically not overheating, but a concern nevertheless, because it usually runs closer to 190-200 degrees.  I suspect that the radiator may be dirty from the dusty roads we had been on the last few days.  In Alamosa we stopped at the Walmart for some groceries and distilled water, in case the coolant reservoir was low.  Unfortunately, the Walmart was sold out of distilled water.  However, we found a Family Dollar Store in Monte Vista, the next town down the road, and they had 4 gallons on their shelf.  I considered it an omen, so I bought them all.

Later. I determined that the coolant reservoir level was adequate, but by analyzing the coolant with a refractometer, I determined the ethylene glycol (antifreeze) concentration was greater than 65%.  This high concentration by itself is probably not harmful, but it is much higher than necessary.  While providing excellent freeze protection (-70 degrees F) a concentration closer to 50/50 would provide more efficient cooling.  The coach has a huge coolant reservoir, so I added 2 gallons of distilled water to try to bring the antifreeze concentration down a bit.  The first chance I get I will try to rinse the dust off the radiator and the charge air cooler.

Fire evidence on US 160

Southwest Colorado has experienced a number of fires this summer.  They seem to be mostly out now, but we did see evidence of their damage.

These folks were very very lucky

This was a prominent and interesting peak along US 160.  Unfortunately, we can't determine its name. 

Tunnel portal on the east side of Wolf Creek pass

It was a vey nice tunnel

Wolf Creek Pass is a significant pass on the Continental Divide.  It was made famous in 1975 by country music star C. W. McCall's humorous spoken word song, in which the pass is fondly described as "37 miles o' hell -- which is up on the Great Divide." In the song, two truckers drive an out-of-control 1948 Peterbilt down U.S. Highway 160 to Pagosa Springs—a 5,000-foot drop in elevation.

     I looked at Earl and his eyes was wide

     His lip was curled, and his leg was fried.

     And his hand was froze to the wheel like a tongue to a sled in the middle of a blizzard.

     I says, "Earl, I'm not the type to complain

     But the time has come for me to explain

     That if you don't apply some brake real soon, they're gonna have to pick us up with a stick and 

     a spoon..."

("Wolf Creek Pass" written by Bill Fries and Chip Davis, sung by C.W. McCall)

Click HERE to hear C.W. McCall perform "Wolf Creek Pass".

After a very long day and 349 miles of driving we arrived in Durango Colorado.  We will be parked at Junction Creek Campground in the San Juan National Forest, just 5 miles north of Durango, for the next 7 nights.   

Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness: The Whitley Way

Warning!!! 

This post is long and contains a lot of detail. If you are a paddling or camping gear head or think you might want to travel in the BWCAW some day, then read on. If you are simply here to see where we have been and to look at the pretty pictures, you might want to skip this one.


People often ask us about the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). They ask us specific questions about a variety of topics, and I try to answer their questions, but I'm never really able to convey the essence of our experience or what we do there or how we do it. To that end I thought I would describe our methods. There are many other methods, theories and practices, but this is the Whitley Way.

The Basics


First a little basic information: The BWCAW is a unit of Superior National Forest in northeastern Minnesota. It encompasses a little more than a million acres and over 1000 lakes. It is a premier destination for wilderness canoe camping. The BWCAW is bounded to the north by the Canadian Quetico Provincial Park which has similar characteristics and is similarly managed as a wilderness canoe destination. While similar, Quetico only gets about 10% as many visitors as the BWCAW. It is said to be more remote than the BWCAW, however, based on our single visit to Quetico in 2003, I would disagree. We saw almost as many people in Quetico as we typically see in the BWCAW. And it's much more expensive. When we went to Quetico in 2003 it cost $10 per day per person, and likely costs more today. For a 2-week trip that adds up to $280, plus there are some customs expenses. The BWCAW charges a modest reservation fee (optional but recommended) and a single entry fee for each person. For the two of us that totaled $28 this year. Quetico is nice, but the value is just not there. We won't be going back to Quetico for a while.

Fresh fried fish, hash browns and re-hydrated vegetables

In order to enter the BWCAW you must acquire an entry permit. There are approximately 80 designated entry points. There are a finite number of permits issued daily for each entry point. For example, at Mudro Lake where we put in this year, 6 permits are issued each day. That means only 6 parties may put in there each day. However, once you enter you can stay in as long as you wish, go anywhere you want and take out at any other entry point. Parties are limited to nine people and 4 boats. Once in you must stay at one of the 2000+ designated camp sites. Each camp site is marked on the maps and features a cast iron fire grate and a pit latrine. The “boonie”, as we call it, is a luxury as well as an important sanitary feature. Most camp sites have a very nice view of the lake. Any particular lake may have no campsite or 30+ campsites.

Dorcas on a smooth portage

Our History

We first visited the BWCAW in 1997 and have been back every year since, except for one year when we paddled the Allagash River in Maine instead. We usually put in in late August or early September. Usually the bugs are gone by that time of year, and it is fine fall weather. Initially, we would put in for about one week (we were working, ya know?) but increased the length of our trips as time went on. We now put in for 14 days. We would probably stay in longer if we could carry more food. Most parties we talk to seem to stay in no more than 4-5 days. We also travel much farther to get here than most folks we see. About 80% of the people we talk to are from Minnesota. Perhaps another 15% are from Wisconsin and Illinois. I don't think these folks really appreciate their treasure. They seem surprised that we would drive so far to visit the BWCAW. Every year we are anxious to get back. I expect we will continue to return each year as long as we are able.

Wayne cooking country ham on the fire grate, grits and coffee

1997 was a big year for other reasons. That was the year Dorcas and I met. Our second “date” was a trip to Siler City to buy a Kevlar Mad River Explorer. Wayne and Lynda had already invited me on their BWCAW trip that fall, and I had been looking for a lightweight boat. Wayne went with us, but he had not yet met Dorcas, and she had not been officially invited on the trip (although I had already asked her to go), so she was sorta on trial. We all did a couple of river camping trips that summer. She apparently passed Wayne's muster, because ultimately he let her go on that 1997 trip. Actually I think Lynda was happy about having another lady on the trip. In 1997 I also adopted Izaak. We didn't take Izaak that first year, but he did go every year thereafter until his death in 2007.

Our Boat

The single most important piece of equipment is your canoe. You just won't get very far without one. You certainly won't have much fun without one. A very few number of folks use kayaks, but they aren't very practical here. They are difficult to portage and don't hold much gear. The BWCAW is one of the last remaining bastions of the canoe as kayaks take over the rest of the world. Long live the open canoe!

Our loaded Bell Northwind canoe, showing rod holder

In 2002 we replaced our Mad River with a Bell Northwind in Black Gold lay-up. It is a Kevlar and carbon fiber hull that weighs about 53 pounds and is 17.5 feet long. That is actually heavier than many kevlar boats up here, but this is an expedition model and is quite a bit tougher than most. Perhaps 90% of folks here rent kevlar boats from local outfitters. This is advantageous because you can beat the crap out of them and drag them over rocks and throw them off cliffs, and it doesn't really matter (note to self: never buy a used rental boat). A few folks use aluminum boats, and I don't really know why. I guess it's because they are cheap. Weight is important. Unfortunately, the lakes do not all run together in one continuous body of water where you can paddle directly from one to the other. They are often separated by rocky creeks, rapids, log jams, waterfalls, mountains and other obstacles. This necessitates a maneuver known as a portage. More on that later. Our boat is equipped with fishing rod holders, a padded portage yoke, spare paddle and a spare fishing rod. It also has knee pads made of closed cell foam. I started out paddling whitewater and still kneel in the canoe much of the time.

Our Gear

We carry the majority of our stuff in four large packs. The heaviest is the dreaded “food pack”. The food pack consists of a Duluth Pack Camp Kitchen. The Duluth Pack company has made traditional north woods canoe gear since the beginning of time; for well over 100 years. It is hand made in Duluth MN using heavy canvas and leather materials and stout copper rivets. Our Camp Kitchen has had several modifications. First, a haul loop was added to the back center near the shoulder straps to help lifting and loading into the boat. We tie a rope to the haul loop when we hoist the pack up our bear line. Second, grab loop handles have been added to each side of the bag near the large outer pockets, which enables the bag to be carried more easily by two people. Both of these modifications were performed in the factory in Duluth. Third, and most importantly, it has been outfitted with a stainless steel liner box. Wayne owned a heating and air conditioning business, is skilled at working sheet metal and has kindly made me several such boxes. The box provides shape and rigidity to the pack, makes it more water resistant and helps keep the critters out. I haven't weighed my loaded food pack in several years; it's just too depressing. The last time I did weigh it several years ago, it weighed over 80 pounds, and there is no reason to believe it has gotten any lighter. We pack all the food in the food pack for our two-week trip. More on food later.

Dorcas on a smooth portage trail

The next heaviest item is the “pack basket”. Actually it is a Duluth Pack Cruiser Combo #3. That means it is a 20” pack basket inside a Duluth Pack #3 Cruiser Pack. The pack basket is a traditional canoe pack, used for as long as canoes have been used. It is lightweight and tough. The Cruiser pack provides a means of carrying the basket, protection from the elements and from abrasion and adds some exterior and interior pockets. The pack basket has also been modified by the factory to add padded leather shoulder straps and a waist belt. The pack basket carries most of our “hard” camping gear, such as stove, fuel, Outback oven, cook set, cups, folding saw, bear spray, liquor and diabetic supplies in a hard case. It also contains other small soft items such as rain tarp, bear line kit, inflatable PFDs, first aid kit, emergency kit, Dorcas' hammock, laundry supplies, toilet paper, soap, towels, etc.

The next heaviest bag is the “dry bag”, a Sealline Pro Pack, a heavy-duty waterproof dry bag with shoulder straps and waist belt. This bag contains the tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, pillows, clothes bags and loose fleece items, and is always carried directly to our tent site.

Lastly is the “net bag”. The net bag is a light-weight mesh backpack with a heavy vinyl bottom made by Stahlsac. This is where we carry items that don't care if they get wet, such as Camp-Rest chairs, water bucket, water bottles, sandals, water shoes, boat sponge and spare straps and lines.

In addition to these four major packs we each carry a personal dry bag. I use a Watershed Ocoee duffel and Dorcas uses a Mad River thwart bag with a lightweight waterproof liner. In these bags, we carry those things we may need while on the water: rain gear, cameras, binoculars, GPS, walkie-talkie/weather radio, paddling gloves, sunscreen, extra toilet paper, notebook, etc. There is also a tackle bag consisting of a small medium sized fanny pack.

Finally, we pack a pair of 5.6' medium action spinning rods loaded with Spiderwire, a tough braided fishing line and a pair of Bending Branches Black Pearl carbon bent shaft paddles.

Whew, what a load!

Other paddlers we see use a wide variety of gear. A few use Duluth Packs, but most use a combination of various dry bags, nylon cordura portage packs and traditional hiking back packs and day packs. Some use large plastic barrels to carry and store their food. A few poor souls pack everything into large trash bags. Most folks have way too many small loose items to keep up with.


Portaging

Remember those non-interconnected lakes? OK, now we have to carry all this crap from one lake to the next. The quality of portage trails can vary widely. Some are as smooth and level as a country road (rare!). Others are steep and rocky. Some are thick with tree limbs and brush. Often there may be a log or tree across the trail. Some are so weedy and thick with trees and limbs that you have to make a 3-point turn to get through some bends with the boat. Some are wet, muddy and slicker than snot on a rock. You just never know what it's going to be until you do it. As Forrest Gump said “Life is like a box of chocolates ...” Portages also vary greatly in length. Portages are traditionally measured in “rods” an archaic surveying measure that equals 16.5 feet. I don't know why rods are used. It could be that that is the approximate length of a canoe and provides a good visual reference for the distance. More likely the timber companies used rods when laying out tracts and the tradition remained. In any case portages can range from 5 rods or less to more than 400 rods. Do the math; it can be a long carry. Most portages we see are between about 40r and 180r. If the terrain is difficult the 40r portage can be more difficult and take longer than the 180r. A good landing at the portage path can go a long way towards making a portage easier. Some landings are smooth sandy beaches (rare) where you can paddle right up, step out and unload the boat while standing on hard level ground. Others are rocky, wet, muddy and/or steep. There is no easy way to get yourself out of the boat, much less the gear, without leaning over the water, balancing on two rocks and/or dragging the boat up across the rocks. This is when it would be nice to have a rental boat.

Portaging the canoe

Most people really dread the portages. While we don't actually look forward to them, we do appreciate the break it provides from the paddling. Paddle a while, take a nice hike in the woods. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Some are fairly pleasant, but some can be grueling. Most are somewhere in between. I don't think Matilda ever met a portage she didn't like.

A rocky portage landing

We always double portage; there is no other way considering our load. This means we haul one load of gear over, walk back to the start and then haul the final load. I think most BWCAW visitors do the same, although we do occasionally see folks who single portage. On the first load I always carry the boat and the net bag. Dorcas usually carries the SealLine dry bag on her back with her thwart bag on her waist and the paddles in her hands. After a leisurely return, I carry the food pack on my back and my Watershed bag in my hands. Dorcas carries the pack basket on her back, the tackle bag on her waist and the fishing rods in her hands. If it is a particularly long or brushy carry, Dorcas may put the paddles and the fishing rods in a lightweight bag and carry them all together. The secret to portaging, other than a proper mind set, is organization. We have combined all our gear into as few a number of bundles as possible, and we each have specific items we are responsible for. It is amazing how many times we see folks discussing who carries what at a trail portage, when we know that to have gotten where they are, they had done several portages already. It is fun to find the neat things those people leave behind, because no one was specifically responsible for that item, or they just had too many loose items.


Our Clothing

Our clothing is pretty much standard issue hiking and paddling attire. We plan for temperatures to range from about freezing overnight to the 90s during the day. We also expect wind and rain. This means mostly synthetic fabrics with lightweight long undies, zip-off hiking pants, nylon/polyester camp shirts, fleece outer wear, Gore-tex rain gear, hiking socks and a bathing suit. I pack two sets of shirts and pants, Dorcas packs three sets, but we do usually do some laundry during the trip. We wear rubber-soled Bean Boots while traveling, sandals or Crocs while in camp. Bean Boots are great while portaging. They provide good support and are good in the mud, but if you step in water over 10” deep, they get wet. Most other folks we see seem to use tennis shoes and sandals, rather than boots.


Our Food and Meals

We eat really well on our trips. No twigs and nuts for this group! Early on while camping with Wayne and Lynda, we developed a practice where one couple would plan, carry and prepare the evening meal at a camp site, then do the breakfast the next morning at the same camp site. This couple essentially “owned” the kitchen at that camp, while the other couple relaxed and enjoyed the service. The next evening, at the next camp, the other couple would do the meals.

Hash browns with summer sausage on the fire grate

Our food consists of a variety of commercially available dry products as well many things we have dehydrated ourselves. We also carry a lot of salted and cured meat products that don't require refrigeration. Rules prohibit cans or glass food or beverage containers,. We use salmon, tuna and chicken in foil pouches. We often will pre-prepare a lot of our meals. For example, our oatmeal will be pre-measured, and fruit, brown sugar and spices already added, with the amount of water to be added written on the bag. Then all the parts for a whole meal will be put in a bag and labeled.

Salmon cakes, hash browns and veggies

We do a lot of our own dehydrating. We make beef jerky from lean ground beef. We dehydrate frozen mixed vegetables, homemade chili and canned spaghetti sauce. We dehydrate ground beef, mushrooms, and tomatoes to add to a number of dishes.

A fluffy buttermilk pancake

Typical meals include:

Breakfast:

Grits, stewed dried fruit, country ham or side meat.

Spiced oatmeal with summer sausage.

Pancakes with country ham or side meat.

Lunch:

Peanut butter and jelly on bagels

Pouch tuna or salmon on pita

Jerky, gorp, summer sausage w/crackers and cheese

Dried soup mixes while in camp

Cookies, candies, nuts

Dinner:

Chili w/cornbread

Spaghetti with sauce and bread or bread sticks

Beef stroganoff

Chicken and rice or chicken and dumplings

Salmon patties (from pouch) and mixed vegetables

Camp fire pintos

Red beans and rice w/summer sausage

Fried fresh fish w/hash browns and mixed vegetables

Deserts: marshmallows, s'mores, cookies, muffins, brownies

Dorcas enjoying salmon patties, hash browns and veggies

We cook using both the iron fire grate and a pair of lightweight backpacking stoves. Wayne and Lynda carry a large cast aluminum frying pan that is great for use on the fire. We use it to cook fish, ham, summer sausage, side meat and hash browns. We also use the grate to keep food warm while cooking and serving. Lynda carries a lightweight backpacker frying pan for use on the camp stove. We also carry an 8” Outback Oven for baking. The Outback oven is functionally an ultralight Dutch oven that can be used over a camp stove. We make biscuits, cornbread, and muffins and brownies, all from supermarket mixes. 

Lynda's s'mores on flour tortillas

On our first evening of the trip, hopefully before we have done too many portages, we will grill a steak on the fire. The first morning we will have bacon and fresh eggs. We try to salvage a leftover egg or two for recipes later on that call for an egg.

Pancakes and country ham

We eat way too much on our trips, and each year we vow to carry less food. I think part of the problem is we are preparing for the other couple, so we want to make sure they aren't disappointed and won't go hungry. Of coarse, they are thinking the same about their meals. Each year we promise we will add at least one new menu item to the meal plan, but for reasons I can't explain, it rarely happens. I think basically we are just “rut” people. Or maybe we are simply traditional.

Summer sausage in hash browns and stewed dried fruit

Fishing

The BWCAW is a world class fishing destination. We fish, but not as hard or with as much vigor as many who visit here. The majority of our fishing is trolling as we move from lake to lake. I will usually cast into a promising weed bed or rocky hump as we pass by, if Dorcas will let me. While this is not the most effective fishing approach, we usually manage to catch some fish every day. On layover days we will usually go out and fish a little more seriously, fishing the banks and weeds pretty hard. I usually use a spinner bait, because it is not prone to catch many weeds or snag on the rocks, so I can fish where the fish are. It seems to be very effective. If we are in deep water with no weeds we may use a diving lure with treble hooks, something like a rattletrap. We would likely catch many more fish if we would sit in one place and jig along the bottom, but that's pretty boring. Most years we have no trouble catching enough fish for 3 fish fries and that's usually plenty. We primarily catch northern pike, small mouth bass and walleye. All are fine eating fish.

Dorcas washing the dishes

Our Camp

We are always looking for so-called 5-star camp sites. There are a number of factors we use when rating and selecting a camp site. Good tent pads, a good landing, a good kitchen, a good scenic view and a good bear line tree are all important. The most important factor, however, is that the camp site is vacant! We usually try to make camp before too late in the afternoon, no later than 4:00 if possible. The earlier you camp, the more choices you have. If you wait too late, you may have no choices at all and must paddle to the next lake or back track to the last lake. BWCAW rules say you may not share a camp site with another party. We carry walkie-talkies so we can scout multiple camp sites simultaneously and discuss our findings before committing.

Hoisting the food packs on the bear line

Before landing at our camp we bail water from the lake. We have never treated our water here, and so far, we have had no problems. We pick a spot that seems to be a deep part of the lake and well away from shore and dip our water from as far below the surface of the lake as we can reach. We fill our water bags and jugs and use the water for drinking and cooking.

"The Boonie" a rare lidded model.

When we make camp we usually just sit and rest for a while and maybe have a happy hour. Happy hour usually consists of crackers and cheese or nuts and an 80 proof adult beverage. After we have reached the requisite state of relaxation, we start some camp chores.  Dorcas unpacks the dry bag, and sets up the tent, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, etc. My chore is to hang the bear line, which is always an adventure. The bear line consists of a 75' Spectra climbing rope, slung over a stout limb at least 20' high. The other end of the line is tied off to a tree about 30' away. Pulleys are hung from the line so we can haul our two food packs up and off the ground. The rig must be strong enough to support two 80 pound food packs, at least 8' off the ground and 6' from any trees. We have killed a tree or two in the process. I'm not really sure how important all this is. In all our years in the BWCAW we have only had one confirmed bear in our camp. The biggest concern is probably mice and squirrels. A few mornings we have woken to find our packs and the supporting tree on the ground, but we have never had a critter in our food packs. At some point everyone goes out in search of fire wood.  We carry a saw and a small axe so we can make small split cook wood.

An unidentified paddler using the "boonie"

Every camp site has a cast iron fire grate usually with rocks stacked around it to make a nice hearth. There are usually a number of logs around the hearth for sitting and some flat rocks for setting cups, pots etc. The ladies aways like to find a flat dish washing rock, well away from the water where they can set up the dish pan. Tent sites may be back in the trees, or out on the shore. If it is not likely to be too windy or cold we usually prefer an open site.

On our first trip to the BWCAW we went with Wayne and Lynda, who had been paddling in the BWCAW for several years before our first trip.  Wayne is a bit of a Northwoods paddling traditionalist had developed his own style over the years.  We subsequently were greatly influenced by the "Wayne Way".  Had Dorcas and I gone for the first time by ourselves, I expect we probably would have adopted a style that is more lightweight and more in tune with our backpacking roots.

Our Mentor: Taught us the "Whitley Way"

Our Long Summer at Home

Following is a not-so-brief update on our Spring and early Summer activities.  As it turns out, this is the longest period we have been home for as long as I can recall.

We left our Florida home at The Great Outdoors (TGO) on April 15. That's a little earlier than we usually leave, but the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. was having a viewing at the Lucas Theatre for the Arts in Savannah. Dorcas' friends Dianne and Mark live in Pooler GA, just off a Savannah I-95 exit and invited us to spend the night in their cul-de-sac. They have a new 45' Entregra motor home and have 50 amp service at their home. SWEET! We invited them to the film festival and we all went to town and ate at the The Olde Pink House before the show.  Great southern food and a bonus, the house is haunted!  We spent a 2^nd night on the cul-de-sac, and the next day we did a trolley tour of Savannah. Among other things, we saw Forrest Gump's bench. Savannah is about half way between home and TGO. Mark and Dianne have said we could spend the night there any time. So, it looks like we have a new traditional stop-over when going to and from Florida.

Our Florida Home at TGO

An added benefit of getting home a little early from Florida is that we could enjoy our azaleas first hand. In most previous years friends and neighbors have sent us photos saying “Your azaleas sure are pretty. You should be here!”

Azaleas in bloom at the Whitley abode

Sidney and Matilda lounging with the azaleas

Dorcas and I travelled to Alaska in 2011, and we had a great time. For the last year or so we have been planning to return in 2016, 5 years after our first trip. But our schedule would be tight. We arrived home from Florida on April 17. If we were going to Alaska we wanted to leave the first week in May. That just didn't leave a lot of time to get ready, plus we had a number of conflicting events upcoming. We both had jury summons for the time we would be gone, and I had a must-do appointment with my ophthalmologist, which would likely require some follow-up visits. Resurfacing our 33 year-old deck was at the top of the list, and we were not going to Alaska before it was done. At some point, probably while re-surfacing the deck, we decided that Alaska was a non-starter this year. After we made that decision it was like a weight had been lifted. We made alternate plans for a trip departing later in the summer, that should be a really good trip. More on that later.

The Deck Project

Over 10 years ago so-called friends had been commenting on the terrible shape our deck was in, and that we should do something. The deck was built in 1983, the year our house was built, and there were plenty of rotting deck planks and nails that wouldn't stay put. Thankfully the joists and the railings were in pretty good shape; just fairly weathered, It was time to do something. I had bought the lumber back in October last year, but we weren't able to get to it before leaving for Florida. In Florida, my friend Hank, suggested I would be happier using an impact driver, rather than a drill. So before leaving Florida I went to my go-to on-line hardware store (eBay) and bought a cordless Hitachi impact driver, which uses the same li-ion batteries as my other cordless Hitachi tools.

So, starting the 3^rd week in April we tore into it, literally. The first task was to move my radial arm saw from the basement to the deck, no small chore. I had 2 options: 1) take it apart and take it through the house or 2) haul it up from the lower drive way and over the deck rail. I chose option 1, which in hindsight was probably the wrong choice. It took most of a day to move the saw.

Next we started pulling up boards. Our plan was to start at the edge next to the house and remove 2-3 rows, than put down a new row. The rows next to the house were in pretty good shape, and the nails were tight in the joists. That end of the deck is better sheltered from sun and rain. Pulling up the old boards and hammering out the nails was probably the hardest part of the job. Cutting and screwing down the new boards was relatively easy. All told it took us about a week, including long and frequent breaks to escape the heat and to attend to a few other crucial errands during that time (Pickleball). It looks great, I think. Dorcas was a HUGE help. I had big fun hauling the debris to the landfill. I kept some of the best scrap and made some outside work tables for behind the house.

The beginning of the project

What a mess!

See that rotted wood?  UGH!

Almost done

Finished!!!

The Shed

I have been wanting a storage shed for some time. My biggest hesitation regarded where I would put it. Our lot is fairly steep in the back, there are some trees, and I figured setting up a shed would be difficult. One day in late June I was on Peters Creek Parkway and pulled into the Leonard USA lot to do some window shopping for sheds. I liked what I saw there; the prices seemed reasonable and the price included delivery and set up. They said the 4-foot rise on the back end would not be a problem. A few days later Dorcas and I went back and placed an order. We ordered a 10' x 16' metal building with a few options: a 7' roll-up door and metal studs on 16” center (as opposed to 32” on center.) The shed was a custom job and delivery would be in about 2 weeks ( i.e. forever!)

The good news: I finally got the call that my shed could be delivered today. The bad news: on that day we were camping at Stone Mountain State Park. I asked when they could deliver again, if I didn't take it today: answer about a week (another forever!) Dorcas was out hiking and unreachable by phone. So I made a command decision and rushed off the mountain in the Element towards home.

The shed arrived about an hour after I got home. The guy had a pretty slick trailer with a movable bed and an articulated tongue. He was able to back down the drive and put the shed within inches of my stakes. There was only one mishap. Before the building was completely off the trailer, they jacked up the rear end and placed the rear on some blocks, so it would be somewhat level before moving out the trailer. When pulling the trailer out, the shed fell off the blocks and the blocks punched a hole through the floor. Crap! They were able to get it level and set up in about an hour and a half. I then got in the car and drove back to Stone Mountain.

Pretty cool trailer

My back woods are pretty steep

Finally all leveled up

Improved ventilation

Over the next week or so I began modifying the building:

• Built a 3' work table along the back wall.
• Installed racks for hanging tools
• Installed and bolted metal shelving to the wall
• Installed steel cable tie-downs

A few days later a guy from Leonard USA came and replaced the broken floor panel. Unfortunately, he didn't bring paint. A few days after that another guy came by and re-painted the floor.

At some point the electrician arrived. They made a 24” trench from the house to the shed and bored under the driveway. They installed ump-teen outlets, inside and out, and installed an LED motion light over the door. I also found a few electrical projects for them in the house, since they were here.

The sure made a mess of my new lawn

A trencher is an amazing tool

Electricians at work

Fully outfitted

My remaining projects are to replace my temporary ramp with a permanent ramp and to add lattice to the underside of the building. Dorcas says I need air conditioning and DirecTV to be complete.

Motor Home Maintenance and Repairs

I do as much maintenance and repairs on the coach as I can. Obviously I like to save $$$, but just as important, I enjoy the satisfaction and confidence of knowing I can do it. I like to understand how things work. I have fixed a lot of things on the road that would have interrupted our trip if I had to call a repairman or get towed.

• Changed engine oil and filter. This would cost over $400 at a diesel repair shop, but the parts cost me a little less than $100.
• Changed the oil and fluid for Allison transmission. The fluid alone costs about $45 per gallon, and it takes about 4.25 gallons. Not a terribly difficult job, just messy.
• Replaced the switch that illuminates a dash panel warning light telling the driver that the outside step has not fully retracted. This red warning light has been irritating me for years. The hardest part of this task was finding the part.
• Installed a device on the refrigerator boiler that monitors the boiler temperature and shuts down the fridge when the boiler gets too hot. Gas absorption refrigerators used in RVs are very sensitive to unlevel operation. Operating while unlevel can quickly overheat the boiler resulting in permanent and fatal damage to the cooling unit. When the boiler cools, the device will restart the fridge.

With labor rates at $120/hr at RV shops and about $90/hr at diesel shops. I will do as many repairs as I can as long as I can.

OK, that brings us up to date with most of our major projects. Oh yeah, I spent some time making our bird feeders more squirrel resistant. Also, we both spent a lot of time in the basement (it sure is cool down there!) disposing of junk and organizing. It helped that I could now move all my gasoline power equipment out into the new shed. Dorcas says I can't buy any more industrial shelving.  We  took the motor home up to Stone Mountain State Park for 4 nights nights and paddled with the Lumber River Canoe Club for their annual picnic at Princess Anne.

On July 10 we left home for our big summer trip. We are currently in Shenandoah National Park, where internet service is practically nonexistent. In my next post I will share a new chapter in The Adventures of Dorcas and Myron.