Paddling on the Buffalo River in Northern Arkansas

 The Buffalo River is one of our all time favorite rivers.  We have paddled long sections of the river as camping trips about a half a dozen times over the years, but the last time we had been on this river was in 2013, seven years ago.  Wayne had suggested visiting the Buffalo and paddling a few days on our way to Minnesota.  That was a grand idea, so we made a plan.

After our late start leaving the Smokies we did not make up any lost time in eastern Tennessee.  The coach pulled the hill over Newfound Gap nicely, and we easily coasted down the Tennessee side of the hill and out of the park.  However, shortly after leaving the park there was a long delay for a construction back-up. After clearing that mess we took the bypass around Gatlinburg, but experienced incessant stop and go traffic through Pigeon Forge and Sevierville.  Finally we arrived on I-40 east of Knoxville and were free-sailing.  Or so we thought.  After fueling up in Knoxville we hit another slowdown and creeped along at about 10 mph for most of an hour.  All in all, not a great day for making good time on the super-slab.  The rest of the day there were no more delays.  We spent the night at a Walmart in Jackson TN after driving a very long 376 miles.   When we parked at Walmart we found a level place to park and did not extend the leveling jacks.  Consequently I don't know yet if the problem filling the air bags after leveling still exists.  

The next morning we continued west on I-40, crossed the Mississippi River at Memphis and turned north towards the Arkansas Ozark mountains.  We arrived at Buffalo Point Campground on the banks of the Buffalo River by mid afternoon after diving 281 miles across mostly Arkansas back roads.  

The Pyramid in Memphis is now a hotel and Bass Pro Shop

Crossing the Mississippi River into Arkansas

Wild Bill's Outfitter is located near the Buffalo River near Dillard's Ferry, Buffalo Point and Yellville AR. When we did our Buffalo River camping trips we always used Wild Bill to shuttle our vehicles.  Wild Bill's also happened to be the closest place to our camp to find a cellular signal, so we visited there every day or two to catch up on the news from the outside world. 

It has been hot and humid all summer at home in NC.  The forecast predicted no break from the heat, although the humidity may have been a bit lower.

The Buffalo National River is America's first national river. Established in 1972, the Buffalo National River flows freely for 135 miles and is one of the few remaining undammed rivers in the lower 48 states.  It is by far one of the most scenic rivers we have ever paddled.  On this trip we will be paddling on the lower section of the river near Dillard's Ferry, which has fewer tall bluffs than the more scenic upper reaches.  Enough talk.  Sit back and enjoy the ride 

Home From the Buffalo River

We have completed our annual canoe camping trip on the Buffalo National River and have arrived safely at home. The 10-day camping trip was great...one of our best. The weather was mild, a bit windy and some rain with a couple of storms. A few years ago we did not complete our planned Buffalo trip and took out early due to flood conditions. This year Myron and Wayne were determined we would complete our trip from Ponca, AR to Buffalo City, AR "come hail or high water". Well, we had both hail and high water and still completed the planned trip.

On Wednesday, April 13 we met Wayne and Lynda and Harry, as planned, at Wild Bill's Outfitter and drove the two hours to Ponca with our shuttle drivers. As we neared our put-in, our shuttle driver mentioned there were elk in the area. We have been to this area several times and had never seen the elk. Suddenly, as if on queue, there was an entire herd of elk beside the drive at the put-in. Dorcas jumped out to take pictures.Very cool.

The day was sunny and nice so the put-in was crowded with paddlers launching their kayaks and canoes. While lower sections of the river were very high, the Ponca area was at an optimal level. Apparently everyone knew that; we had never seen so many paddlers here before. Most were day-paddlers, but a few were camping. The first incident occurred right out of the chute, when one boat in our party (which will remain unidentified) got pinned on a rock 20' from the put-in. The boat got swamped, and it filled with water. It wouldn't have been that big a deal except there were 50 other boaters there watching us, all thinking "Rookies ...they're never going to make it". I'm sure the paddler(s) affected were very embarrassed.

The river was at an excellent level. The upper section was characterized by swift water and 1-2 foot standing waves. Enough excitement to be interesting, but nothing too difficult, even with over-loaded canoes. The flow was good, and we made good time. Typically we camped about 4:00 each evening and be on the water by 10:30 the next morning, making for a very leisurely float. As usual, we ate well, grilling steaks or chops the first four nights.


Late in the evening of Day 2 some thunderstorms came through and it rained pretty hard for about 3 hours. We knew the storms were coming and had camped well up on a high bank. By morning the river was rising and ultimately came up about 5', drowning our camp fire. As we watched a set of standing waves grow at the bend just below our camp, we made the decision to lay over this day. We snagged fire wood from the river as it passed by our camp to stoke our re-located fire. By the next morning the water had dropped 2-3 feet, and we set off again. Each passing day the water level continued to drop and become more clear and green.

Usually on this river there are several swift chutes with a tree blocking the obvious route, making for a challenging run. On this trip none existed. Perhaps they had all been washed out. In past trips we could particularly count on Harry for some entertainment at these places, but Harry's river skills have improved, and he's no fun any more. We need to recruit a new rookie.

After 9 nights and 10 days on the river, we ferried across the White River to Riley Landing, where our cars were waiting. Perhaps the most exciting part of the trip was the drive eastward across northern Arkansas where we experienced 50 mph cross winds. The poor little Element would have had a hard time staying in the road, even if it didn't have a canoe on top. We spent the night at a motel near Cookeville TN and visited friends in Morganton before arriving at home. It is good to be home. We have been gone for 18 days and slept in the tent all but two nights.

But now we have to prepare for our next adventure. So many trips ... so little time.

Buffalo Gals Won't You Come Out Tonight?

After a leisurely breakfast on Monday, Dorcas and I departed Brushy Creek campground at the crack of noon, well before the forecast storms. We headed northwest and soon passed through Tupelo, Mississippi, the birthplace of Elvis. We didn't even stop for a fried banana and peanut butter sandwich. The storms finally hit shortly before we passed through Memphis. The wind and rain were fierce, but it washed some of the dust and sand off the car and boat. We stopped at a Sam's Club for some rib eyes and a 4-berry sundae and crossed the "Big Muddy" into Arkansas. We went on-line and found a Motel 6 in Conway AR that was pet-friendly and had a coin laundry. At the Motel 6 we did laundry, caught up on our e-mails, paid bills and conducted some other business on-line. I love the internet.

This morning we had breakfast at the Waffle House which was on the left side of the Motel 6 and did some shopping at the Walmart Supercenter which was on the right side of the Motel 6. Before noon we were on the road north towards Yellville AR, where we will meet our outfitter for our shuttle on the Buffalo River. When we crossed the Buffalo River at Dillard's Ferry the river was muddy and at a fairly high level, due to the recent rains. "For experienced paddlers only" the NPS web site said. Apparently the river had been closed here today due to high levels. We stopped at the outfitter and found that at Ponca, about 85 miles upstream, where we would put in on Wednesday, the river had crested and was actually at a very good level for paddling. Unless we get more rain the river should be at a good level for most of our trip. We are camped at Buffalo Point, a very nice NPS campground on the river just below Dillard's Ferry. We will meet our friends from NC tomorrow at 9:00 at Wild Bill's Outfitter, who will shuttle us to Ponca. They will then store our vehicles at their shop and drive them to Riley's Landing on the White River, before we take off in 10 days. Baring anything unforeseen, we will make about 125 miles over the 10 days. We look forward to a very leisurely float.

Buffalo River Trip Wrap-up

We completed our canoe camping trip on the Buffalo River this afternoon. We actually took off the river one day ahead of schedule. Unlike last year, when we took off two days ahead of schedule and 33 miles before our intended take-out due to dangerously high and rising river levels, this year we completed our 126 mile trip. Good flow and ideal water levels allowed us to complete our trip from Ponca to Buffalo City in 9 days rather than the 10 days we had originally allowed. We typically paddled 15+ miles a day breaking camp about 10:00 and stopping about 3:00 on a beautiful gravel bar across from a towering bluff. The trip was largely uneventful; just a great float trip! The first third of the trip showed falling water levels and cooler than normal weather. During the middle part of the trip we got some rain and the river rose a bit. Near the end of the trip it turned warmer and the river levels dropped back to more normal levels.

We saw a wide assortment of wildlife. We saw the usual river-side birds as well as bald eagles and ospreys. We saw snakes and otters. The fishing was a little slow, but we managed to take a few smallmouth bass each day. In the small-world department, we ran into a fellow on the river from Mississippi near where my mother lived and we had many common acquaintances. He knew my mother's husband and his family very well.

After taking off at Riley's Landing in Buffalo City on the White River, Wayne, Lynda and Harry departed for NC. Dorcas and I retrieved the motor home, which was parked at Wild Bill's house, and moved a few miles down the hill to the federal campground at Buffalo Point. There we dried out all our gear and packed away the camping gear we would not use on the remainder of our trip. Tomorrow we will move south about 140 miles to Hot Springs National Park.

Buffalo National River

We left The Dell in Sevierville early this morning and drove 720 miles to Clinton Arkansas, where we are spending the night in the Wal-Mart parking lot. In the morning we will drive north another 45 miles to Wild Bill's Outfitters on the Buffalo National River and meet our friends from NC. From there, Wild Bill will take us to Ponca, where we will put in for a 10-day, 135 mile float down the Buffalo River. We talked to Wild Bill's today about the river levels. The center part of the river is near flood stage and rising. Tomorrow this section of the river may be closed to boating. Luckily the level at Ponca is just right and dropping slightly, so we should be well behind the flow surge. Hopefully the river won't get much more rain in the next 10 days.

We'll be offline during our canoe trip so check back after the 23rd.

Off to the Buffalo River

The Buffalo River is by far the best camping river we have ever paddled on. It flows freely through public land in the Ozark Mountains of northern Arkansas for over 135 miles before converging with the White River. Along its course it flows by numerous 300' limestone bluffs and large gravel beaches, perfect for primitive camping.

Tomorrow we are leaving home headed to the Buffalo River.We hope to put on the river on Tuesday afternoon for a 10-day camping trip. We had originally planned to leave yesterday and put on today, but were thwarted by high water levels due to monsoon-like spring rains and storms. Barring further rain, water levels should be perfect when we put-in on Tuesday. We are hoping the heavy rains will stay away for the duration of our trip. As you can see in this hydrograph, water levels can and do reach flood stage very quickly after a heavy rain event. Anything above 8.5' at this station is rated for "Experienced Floaters Only" Above 12.5' the National Park Service "closes" the river. The long term forecast doesn't look too bad. Wish us luck and bon voyage.

I won't be able to update this journal again until we get off the river about Apr 24.