BWCAW 2015

Dorcas and I have survived another adventure in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (our 17th trip to the BWCAW since we met in 1997).  We put in at Isabella Lake on August 27 and took out at the South Kawishiwi River Campground on SR 1 on September 9, a 14 day trip.  In most past years we have traveled with our friends Wayne and Lynda.  This year Dorcas and I were on our own.   Our plan was to have a leisurely trip with short paddle days and many layover camps.  We succeeded in our plan.  We made a total of 8 camps and traveled a total of only about 34 miles.

Dorcas on the portage to Isabella Lake, through the burn

When we arrived at Isabella Lake we discovered that the area had experienced an extensive burn in 2011.  Most of the mature trees were charred and dead, but still standing, but there was also healthy new growth as the forest was recovering.  Furthermore, there was a sign at the put-in saying many campsites were closed (without specifying which ones) and that there was a $5000 fine to camp in a closed site.  CRAP!  What does that mean?  Will we be able to find campsites?  No one had told us about the burn and the closed camp sites while planning our trip and acquiring our permit.  If we had been aware of the burn we likely would have chosen a different route.  But we were now committed, so we made the best of it.

The Isabella River in the burn area

Before putting in we did something we had never done before: we weighed all our gear.  We carry way too much junk, and I wasn't sure I really wanted to see the numbers, but Dorcas was insistent.  So .... here are the sad results:

Duluth food pack:  81.34 lbs.    
Duluth pack basket:  56.37 lbs.
Big dry bag:  46.34 lbs.
Net bag (without drinks):  22.00 lbs.
Myron's thwart/dry bag:  11.55 lbs.
Dorcas' thwart bag:  5.16 lbs.
Tackle bag:  6.61 lbs.
Boat:  63.05 lbs.

Man, what a load!!!   Here are a few observations:

We didn't actually carry 81 lbs of food.  The empty food pack, which consists of a large heavy canvas bag and includes a stainless steel liner box, weighs over 17 lbs.  Also, we had to feed Matilda, so her food and treats added over 7 lbs.  While 81 lbs is a burden, it did get a little lighter after every meal.

The big surprise was the weight of the boat and the net bag.  Our hull is made of carbon fiber and Kevlar, a very tough and light material, and originally weighed 53 lbs.  Over the years I have attached things to the boat that have apparently increased its weight by 10 lbs. Additions include: Kevlar skid plates, end lines, 2 fishing rod holders (stainless steel), additional thwart to mount the bow rod holder, a spare paddle and a spare fishing rod,  Additionally, the bottom has been re-surfaced twice and dings have been filled, all adding mass to the hull.  When portaging I wear the net bag when I carry the boat which means I carry a load totaling 85 lbs across the first leg of the portage.  Then I carry the 81 lb food pack across the second trip across the portage.  No wonder I dread the portages!

For a description of our equipment and methods, click here.

The Isabella River past the burn area

Our route for the trip was indefinite.  We had options as to where we were to take out.  Option 1 was to turn around and backtrack to Isabella Lake, where our car was parked.  Option 2 was to continue westward and take out at the South Kawishiwi River Campground.  Option 3 was to zig north and to Lake One, another popular entry point.  Options 2 and 3 would mean we would arrive with no mode of transport back to our car, a worrisome prospect. Eventually we chose Option 2.  That route was easier than Option 3,  and we would come out much closer to our car.

Matilda says "What are we waiting for Daddy?"

We found a nice camp site on Isabella Lake and stayed over for our first 2 nights in order to lighten our food load before doing any portages.  Then we headed westward down the Isabella River.

A pair of Tundra swans on the wing

Even with the burn, the Isabella is a very pretty river.  Shortly after we passed the confluence with the Little Isabella River we left the burn area.

A gorgeous sunset

The weather was nice for our trip.  Most days the high temperature was 75-80 degrees and lows were in the 50s.  A few mornings we saw lows near 45 degrees.  In the second week of the trip a front came through, and we had strong thunderstorms 4 nights in a row.  Thankfully, they all hit after we had retired to the tent.

A few live trees in the burn at our camp

Normally we would paddle around and fish a bit on our layover days, but most days it was rather windy, and we just didn't feel like fighting it.  We lounged around camp and did a lot of reading.  Dorcas enjoyed some serious hammock time.  Sticking to our leisurely trip plan...

A tricky portage landing

The portages on this route were generally easy.  None were steep and and most had smooth paths and easy landings.

Wildlife on the rain tarp

Surprisingly, we had cellular and Internet service for much of the trip, particularly on Bald Eagle Lake and Gabbro Lake.  I had carried my iPhone, primarily to take notes for the trip.  I was astonished to see we had 3G service.  Having phone and Internet service on this kind of a trip is a mixed bag.  It diminishes the wilderness experience and the sense of isolation.  On the other hand it sure is nice to get a current weather forecast.

Dorcas loves her hammock

There were very few paddlers on the Isabella River.  During our 4 days on the river we only saw one other boat.

The Isabella is truly a pretty river

A 6 1/2 pound Northern pike.  More than we could eat.

FISH FRY!!!

An approaching storm

More swans on the wing

Another fine sunset

Some of our excessive gear

A room with a view

A clear blue day on the lake

Ducks on the pond at sunset

A rare sighting of a stand up paddle board:  A unique way to travel in the BWCAW

A rare double hearth fire grate

Dorcas and Matilda lounging at camp

My two favorite people

A classic beaver lodge

This is why there are portages on slow-moving rivers

A Hairy woodpecker ... I think

Red squirrels, chipmunks and mice are a given at camps and usually are quite bold.  Matilda loves the squirrels.

Our route

Our last day turned out to be the hardest.  From our last camp to the South Kawishiwi River Campground was only a little over 6 miles.  But there were 4 portages with difficult landings and rocky and muddy paths.  Then for about the last 3 miles we fought a strong headwind with white caps on the water.  It was a relief when we finally arrived at the take out.

The final portage

Our next chore was to walk the campground loop looking for a sympathetic camper with a canoe who would drive me back to our car.  During our first loop through the campground we saw about 4 occupied sites, but no cars and no campers.  CRAP!  We had cell service and could call an outfitter in Ely to carry us to our car, but that would take hours and cost a bundle.  While pondering our options we met a couple of ladies walking back from the river with their dogs.  They were camped here and were very willing to take me to the car.  Back at the put-in I found the car to be safe and sound after its 2-week rest, always a relief.  I drove back to our take-out and collected Dorcas, Matilda and our gear.  We then drove back to Fall Lake Campground where the motor home was parked and checked into Site #6.

We spent the next 2 days drying and packing away our gear.  On Saturday we head north and will cross the Canadian border, perhaps spending the night near Thunder Bay ON.

Bon voyage, eh?