North Shore State Parks Whirlwind Tour

On our last full day on the North Shore, we cruised up the shore to check out the Minnesota State Parks along the North Shore. There is a moderately steep escarpment about 150' high along the North Shore, where many streams and rivers cascade down to Lake Superior. There are about a dozen state parks between Duluth and the Canada border, most featuring waterfalls and the Lake Superior shoreline. Many are connected by the Superior Hiking Trail, a long distance hiking trail stretching over 250 miles from Duluth to the Canada border. Some are also connected by the Gitchi-Gami State Trail, a paved multipurpose rail-trail. We thought we would do some short hikes, but we particularly wanted to check out the campgrounds to see if any were good candidates for future trips. Our first stop was Tettegouche State Park which is on the Baptism River. There we hiked to the 60' high High Falls and then Two Steps Falls. The falls were nice, but the river flow is way down. They would be much more impressive during spring runoff. The drive-in campground was likewise unimpressive. It was a long way from the lake shore. It was OK, but nothing to brag about. I guess I'm spoiled by the beautiful campgrounds on the Blue Ridge Parkway. They did have a number of very nice walk-in/paddle-in sites right on the lake shore. We also drove up to Palisade Head, a 250' tall volcanic outcrop that drops straight down to the lake. Pretty impressive. You could see all the way to Wisconsin and the Apostle Islands. Matilda was acting bold, so we kept her on a short leash. Apparently Palisade Head is a good climbing destination. There were several parties of climbers on the cliff when we were there. We lunched at the Caribou River State Wayside on the banks of the Caribou River. Matilda had a big time playing in the cascading water. There was supposed to be a pretty nice waterfall about a mile up the river, but we had a lot of things to do today, so we resisted the temptation to hike to the falls.

We cruised on up the shore to Taconite Harbor. Taconite Harbor, constructed in 1950, was the site of a new town and new harbor, where neither existed previously. The harbor was constructed by building breakwaters across two islands and back to the shore. Taconite, a pelletized iron ore, is shipped out to steel mills on the lower great lakes. Close by is Shroeder and the Cross River. In 1843 Father Frederic Baraga, a priest and missionary from Yugoslavia, was crossing the lake from Madeline Island, Wisconsin when an unexpected storm came up and threatened to sink his small boat. He was blown unharmed to the mouth of a small river, where he erected a small wooden cross to thank God for his deliverance. Thus was named the Cross River.

Next stop was the Temperance River State Park, located at the mouth of, you guessed it, the Temperance River. The Temperance River is one of the longest rivers on the North Shore and is so-named because it has no gravel "bar" at it's mouth. I don't know about that one, but that's what they say. The river features a mini-gorge and swift cascades at the mouth of the river. The drive-in campground is also right on the shore and has some electric sites. Sweet. This was by far the most pleasant campground of the state parks we visited.

The last park we visited, and our turn-around place for this tour, was Cascade River State Park. The Cascade River features a rushing river, falling through a narrow, deep gorge, with wonderful waterfalls and cascades. It also contains old-growth pines and hardwoods. As do most of the parks along the North Shore, it features a number of structures constructed by the CCC during the 1930s. All day we collected rocks for Izaak's memorial, but none from the state parks, of course.

On the way home, Dorcas insisted we buy a pie. I resisted (really!) but of course I caved. The North Shore is famous for its fresh pies. Betty's Pies is the most famous of the pie joints, but we had been told it was overrated, and were directed to the Rustic Inn Cafe at Castle Danger. At the Rustic Inn Dorcas bought an apple caramel pie with pecans. Yummy! Great choice.

Bike to Split Rock Lighthouse

We hauled our bikes (1633 miles so far) more than anything else, so we could bike on the Gitchi-Gami State Trail. The Gitchi-Gami State Trail is a paved multi-purpose trail, that, when completed, will travel 86 miles from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. The trail primarily follows an old railroad bed and abandoned sections of MN highway 61. Currently the longest completed section connects Gooseberry Falls State Park and Beaver Bay, about 13 miles. Today we biked from our camp at Gooseberry Falls to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, where we toured the Split Rock Light Station. The ride was gently rolling, but did contain a few steep hills. During the ride, Lake Superior is never out sight for more than a few minutes. Split Rock Lighthouse is not to be missed. The Minnesota Historical Society manages the site and conducts tours with costumed interpreters. The light was commissioned after a series of brutal storms in 1905 when several dozen ships were lost. It operated until 1969 when it was considered to be obsolete and was decommissioned. Since that time it has been restored to its 1920s appearance. This lighthouse is said to be the most visited lighthouse in the country. I would have thought that was Hatteras. In any case, it was certainly worth the trip. You can tour the inside of the lighthouse and walk up the spiral staircase to view the 3rd order Fresnel lens. The lens mount rides on a bearing consisting of 8 pounds of liquid mercury and is turned by a clockworks mechanism driven by a 250 pound weight. Several times a day a keeper will wind up the mechanism. The lamp is not routinely lit today, but the lens still turns at 6 RPMs. You can also tour the restored keepers house. When the station was built, there was no road serving the north shore and all transportation was by boat. Goods were hauled up an elevated tramway from the lake at the base of the cliff. We stayed until closing time and then biked back to camp. During the ride we saw a whitetail deer with two fawns, still in spots.

Hiking Gooseberry Falls State Park

Today we spent the day hiking around Gooseberry Falls State Park. We hiked on the Gitchi Gummi Trail (not to be confused with the Gitchi-Gami State Trail) which loops about a mile around a bluff overlooking the mouth of the Gooseberry River. From there we hiked up the river to Fifth Falls, a less-visited waterfall a mile or two above the mouth of the Gooseberry. Matilda got to hike off-leash for a bit and had a grand time running up and down the trail and eating the water in the river.

Gooseberry Falls State Park

Following are a few photos from Gooseberry Falls State Park.

Photo of the Week: Dog Watching

When in public places I have always enjoyed discreetly watching other people go by. Matilda has apparently learned the joys of doggie watching. Maybe she is wondering what that fluffy thing is on the other dog's butt.

The Grand Portage

Today we moved from Two Harbors a whopping 13 miles up the shore to Gooseberry Falls State Park. We had been at Two Harbors for 8 nights and felt it was time for a change. We kinda wanted to visit a Minnesota State Park, but we had several choices depending upon how far up the shore we wanted to go. Gooseberry Falls, Tettegouche, Cascade River, Temperence River and Judge C.R. Magney State Parks are on the North Shore and all have camping. Gooseberry Falls State Park is touted as one of the top ten campgrounds in North America, so we chose it. I don't know, it's OK, but I'm a little disappointed. It's nice, but the sites are small and don't benefit from the million-dollar-view of the lake. The roads are gravel and a bit dusty. And there are a LOT OF PEOPLE. The campground stays full every night. We got here at 9:00 AM opening time and got our choice of three vacating non-reservable sites. I think we actually ended up with one of the nicest of the parks 70 sites. We were able to park the coach nose-in, and we have a large grassy area on our site in which to let Matilda run a bit.

Today was a little rainy and dreary so we postponed some hikes in the park and drove up the North Shore. Our objective was to scout out other state parks and destinations to visit before we leave Lake Superior on Monday. We ended up driving all the way to Grand Marais before stopping. There we had a nice lunch at The Pie Place. We also stopped at the Superior National Forest ranger station there to see about the conditions in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. There is currently no fire ban in the BWCAW, but if there is no rain before we put in two weeks from now, there likely will be a ban. DANG.

After lunch we cruised on up to Grand Portage National Monument. From 1778 until 1802, the North West Company located their headquarters and western supply depot here for business and a summer rendezvous. French and English fur traders or "Voyageurs" would bring their goods from their winter camps in the north west interior. "Pork Eaters" would bring supplies across Lake Superior from Montreal. This place became the meeting place because it was at the end of the Grand Portage. The Grand Portage was the 8.5 mile footpath used to carry goods and boats from Fort Charlotte on the Pigeon River to the shore of Lake Superior, avoiding the rapids and falls along the lower Pigeon River. The Voyageurs carried 90 pound packs; at least two packs at a time, and sometimes 3 or 4 packs at a time! And I thought the single 85-pound food pack I carried in the BWCAW was tough! They have a nifty new visitor's center here that just opened last summer. There is a reconstructed fort and encampment, including the Great Hall, kitchen and canoe warehouse. Costumed interpreters are out talking about how the traders and Indians lived and worked. Pretty neat! The whole park is operated in concert with the Grand Portage Band of the Ojibwe, on whose reservation the park resides. After the park exhibits closed we hiked up Mt. Rose, which overlooks the encampment and hiked a bit on the Grand Portage itself. We didn't hike to Fort Charlotte, and we didn't carry a load.

From Grand Portage one could look across the lake and see Isle Royale National Park, about twenty miles away. Isle Royale is the largest island in Lake Superior and was one of the places we had hoped to visit during this trip. We killed that prospect when we got Matilda: dogs are strictly forbidden on Isle Royale. There is a company that does day trips to Isle Royale from Grand Portage, so we stopped to talk to them. Unfortunately, the lake level has been at an all-time low for the last two years, and the boat they use for day trips cannot get into or out of the harbor. They are doing day trips on a smaller boat once a week on Fridays, but they were booked two weeks out. Some things are just not meant to be.

It was getting late, but we figured we couldn't come this far without heading on up to the border. We drove to the Canadian border, which was actually pretty anticlimactic. We didn't try to cross since we had not brought Matilda's rabies certificate or our passports. We walked into Grand Portage State Park, which features the highest waterfall in Minnesota. The Pigeon River plummets 120' as it forms the international border. It was starting to get dark, so we turned back towards home. We did make a final stop before dark at Judge C.R. Magney State Park to check out their campground. While we didn't get to view it, one highlight of this park is Devil's Kettle waterfall. Here the Brule River splits and half the river drops 50' into the Devil's Kettle and disappears. Nobody knows where it goes. Researchers have dropped yellow balls into the kettle and they have never re-appeared. Very strange.

Touring Two Harbors

We've enjoyed our stay at Burlington Bay Campground in Two Harbors, MN so we decide to spend our last day here seeing the sights in Two Harbors. After consulting the Shipping News we learned the Philip R. Clarke would be loading in Agate Bay today so we walked uptown. On Thursday evening at the community band performance we were told Two Harbors is the birthplace of 3M. We stopped by the museum and learned that 3M, originally known as Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company, was started in 1902 by five men from the small town of Two Harbors, Minnesota. When the five founders of the company thought they had found mineral called corundum, which would be used for making sandpaper, they began the process of setting up a mining company. To get the company started the men erected a large dock, crushing mill and bunk and storage houses. After selling the corundum to a company in Chicago the men learned that the corundum wasn’t really corundum and had no commercial value. They nearly went bankrupt, but found an over-seas source for their abrasives and eventually recovered. In 1905 the company was moved to Duluth and then in 1907 it was moved to St. Paul and the rest, as they say, is history.

We proceeded to the docks and found the Philip R Clarke being loaded with iron ore pellets. This looks like a hard, dirty job. It seems to be quite a task to line up the chutes from the dock with the cargo holds.
It took several tries to load the hold pictured and the frustration of the workers was very evident.

We continued our walk along the shore of Lake Superior by the lighthouse and back to camp.
Matilda was glad to see us and ready for a walk. Our neighbors who were tent camping with motorcycles, asked about Matilda's breed. When I told them Australian Shepherd they said they were from Australia and had never seen a dog like her. German Shepherds, Border Collies and Australian Kelpies but no Australian Shepherds. One web site I found stated: "The exact origin of the Australian Shepherd is not known. The breed that is cherished and loved today was developed exclusively in the United States. They are typically referred to as "The Aussie"." Guess that is why they are not in Australia. Aussies are good swimmers but not THAT good. Should we consider changing Matilda's name...Daisy Mae maybe? Naw... The folks from Australia did say Matilda was really cute even though she looked more like a hyena than a dog.

The weather here is turning cooler and the breeze off the lake gives the feel of Fall. Nice sweater weather.

Dorcas Does Duluth

Dorcas and I, with our friends Wayne and Lynda, have passed through Duluth many times on our way to and from the BWCAW. Duluth has a lot of neat things, but on those trips we never had more than a few hours to see the sights. During yesterday and today Dorcas and I did Duluth.

Duluth, MN was built on mining, shipping and railroading, so that set the tone for our tours. Our first event was a ride on the North Shore Scenic Railroad. This ride consisted of a 1.5 hour excursion from the historic Duluth Depot, along the waterfront to the Lester River and return. It was a nice ride, but rather boring. Except for the first mile or two when we were near the waterfront, the scenery was mostly of suburban back yards. Half the time on the train we were stopped for switching. The best part of the train ride was discovering the Lake Superior Railroad Museum, located at the Depot. This museum is said to be one of the finest railroad museums in the country. I'm a believer. It had dozens of engines of all types and many more cars and artifacts, mainly used in the hauling of lumber and iron ore. The trains were set on the tracks in the original depot yard, enclosed under a metal roof cover. It also featured authentic period store fronts of early Duluth. We spent about half a day in the museum.

The next event was a boat ride on the Vista King, where we toured the harbor. The "Twin Ports" serve Duluth, MN and Superior, WI. Actually, there is only one natural entrance to this harbor, the one between Minnesota Point and Wisconsin Point near Superior. In the 1870s the folks from Duluth determined that if their city was to prosper, they must establish an opening to the lake closer to their city. Consequently, they began digging the current canal which crosses the base of the peninsula of Minnesota Point. The folks from Superior objected to the the new opening and acquired a Federal injunction to stop the digging. The injunction was issued on a Friday, but could not be served until the following Monday. The folks from Duluth learned of the pending injunction, and had three days before the sheriff could arrive to serve the papers. In those three days the folks from Duluth rallied and completed the canal, making the injunction meaningless, and thereby assuring the prosperity of their city. Typical molasses government bureaucracy at work. Today the famous Aerial Lift Bridge spans the Duluth canal and the Duluth port is much more important than the Superior port. In our harbor excursion we sailed down the harbor towards Superior, entered Lake Superior via the Superior opening and returned via the Duluth canal, passing under the Aerial Lift Bridge. Along the way we saw the grain docks and the steel docks where commodities are loaded for the mills on down the Great Lakes. The most important product coming into the port today is parts for large windmill turbines being constructed all across the Midwest. On the docks were acres and acres of wind vanes, towers, turbines and generators. We also spotted the last of the tall ships to depart Duluth following the annual Duluth Maritime Festival. Prospective mariners can pay $1200 for a two-week hitch on these ships and learn the art of sailing the way it was done way back when. It is hard work and spartan accomodations. Ya gotta really want to do it.

Our third tourist activity was a visit to the Great Lakes Aquarium. The GLA is rare in that it features only fresh-water exhibits. They had exhibits featuring habitats from Isle Royale (Lake Superior), the Baptism River (a fast-moving river with waterfalls) and the St. Louis River (a slow-moving river). We particularly enjoyed the otter pool and the sturgeon touch tank. We also liked the special sea horse exhibit (I'm assuming these were not in fresh water???).

Finally, we walked along Canal Park, the one part of Duluth where we have previously spent some time. There we witnessed a spectacular rainbow as it set on the light at the end of the canal. On that note, we stopped at Fitgers Brewhouse and got a "Growler", and then departed for the hacienda.

Camped on the North Shore

Today we moved north about 100 miles and are camped on the shores of Lake Superior. We are at Burlington Bay Campground, a municipal park, within walking distance of the town of Two Harbors, MN. We let Matilda play off-leash in the water at the lake shore, and she had a grand time.

We are about 20 miles from Duluth and plan to spend time seeing the sights there. We have been in Duluth many times, but never stayed long enough to see the sights. Lots of things are going on in Duluth during the summer and campsites are scarce. The Duluth Maritimes Festival, featuring the tall ships, ended Sunday. The Bayfront Blues Festival is this coming weekend in Duluth.

Paddle: Namekagon River

One of our big objectives during this trip was to paddle on the Namekagon River in northwest Wisconsin. The Namekagon is in the upper part of the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway. We had crossed the river many times previously, coming and going from the Boundary Waters, and it always looked inviting. One year we even stopped at the visitor's center and talked to the ranger and picked up some maps.

So, today was our day to paddle the Namekagon. One can paddle over 100 miles of the Namekagon within the park, so we had a lot of river to choose from. Not having any idea which sections of the river were best, I figured it was all good, so my biggest criteria was to choose a section that could be shuttled on a bicycle. We chose the section from West Howell Landing to Namekagon Trail Landing, a distance of about 12 miles. When we arrived at the take-out, the parking lot was practically deserted. We dropped the bike and headed to the put-in at West Howell Landing. As soon as we put onto the river I was impressed. It was much nicer than the other rivers we had recently paddled. It had a nice flow, the water was clear, and the bottom was covered with lush green vegetation. Fish were abundant; we primarily saw suckers, but also saw a few small mouth bass and a 3' northern pike. Several other paddlers reported spotting a sturgeon. I was not fishing today, so I had to be content to watch the fish as we glided over them in the boat. Matilda did fine; there was no out-of-boat experience today. We left her un-tethered in the boat, which made it a little easier for her to get around in the boat. We stopped on a few sandbars and let her go wild. As usual, she slept much of the last part of the trip.

It was an excellent paddle. The river and the scenery was beautiful. We saw a 12-point buck, a weasel and a few rodents that were either very small beavers or very large muskrats. The only negative thing was the high number of other paddlers. It was a beautiful Saturday and many other paddlers and tubers had chosen to float this section today. We don't have to go out on weekends! Why do we continue to do this? Well, the number of other paddlers did turn out to be a benefit. When we reached the take-out the parking lot was packed and there were cars, trucks and canoe trailers lined up and down both sides of the road. I easily scored a ride back to our put-in to get the car, saving a 10-mile bike ride, half of which was along a narrow state highway.

This section of the Nanekagon is only about 45 miles from our camp. I wish we had another chance to paddle this river, but we will be moving north on Monday, and there are sights up on Lake Superior we want to see. If we have time, we will drop back down and paddle another section of the Namekagon before we leave the Superior area. Also, we may do a 2-3 night camping trip on this river after our Boundary Waters trip in September.

Two Memorial Tributes

Today is the first anniversary of the I-35W bridge collapse in Minneapolis. On August 1, 2007, at 6:05 PM, the bridge carrying eight lanes of rush-hour traffic over the Mississippi River collapsed, killing 13 people and injuring over 100 more. Today at 6:05 PM there was a memorial service to honor the victims of the disaster. The new St. Anthony Falls Bridge is nearing completion, and is scheduled to open in late September this year.

This evening Lynyrd Skynyrd played at the casino amphitheater. The campground was full of beer-drinking rowdy rednecks. I felt like I was back in NC. I have always been a fan of Lynyrd Skynyrd, but the heart and soul of the band died in 1977, when several of the original members died in a plane crash in Mississippi. The band now performing as Lynyrd Skynyrd is essentially a very talented and authentic tribute band. We didn't ante up for tickets, but we did enjoy the music from the hill behind the motor home. The band played about 1 1/2 hours and played only pre-1977 hits. It was a good show, but I miss Ronnie Van Zant.

The American Pasttime: Play Ball!

One thing I have observed while traveling in Minnesota is that folks here are the nicest folks I have ever met. Strangers are always polite, friendly and helpful. But that was before I saw them at a Twins game ..... but I digress.

When we went to "the cities" on Monday, we didn't see all the things we had wanted to see. We also wanted to catch a Twins game, so off we went, back down to "the cities". First stop was St. Paul and historic Fort Snelling, not to be confused with Fort Snelling State Park. Fort Snelling is on a bluff at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers. It was completed in 1825 and became a hub for fur trading and Indian activities. Over the years the fort was used by the army for various purposes, but was never involved in hostile action. It is perhaps best known as a training and processing center where over 300,000 soldiers were inducted during World War II. After WWII the fort was decommissioned. In the 1950s the fort was threatened by development and highway construction, and efforts were started to save the fort site. By that time, little of the original fort structure remained, and reconstruction efforts were started. Today the reconstructed Fort Snelling offers period displays and demonstrations with costumed characters.

Pets are not allowed in the restored Fort Snelling, so we weren't able to go in. But we did walk into adjacent Fort Snelling State Park. We hiked onto Pike Island to the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers and later hiked along the trail upriver towards Minnehaha Park. At one point we saw a hen turkey with chicks. As we got closer to take pictures, the hen did not retreat. Actually she became aggressive and charged us. I can see the headlines now: "Tourists Mauled By Wild Turkey." Thankfully, we survived the attack.

Our next stop was the St. Anthony area for dinner and a Twins game. We chose Tugg's Tavern and had their stuffed Saloon Burger and a few brews. We ate on the patio so Matilda could be close, and we could look across the river towards the Minneapolis skyline. While dining the street in front of the pub was kinda like a parade. A group of about thirty folks on Segway transporters came by. Then along came a "PedalPub", a rolling bar, powered by the folks on the barstools. It looked like a good way to see the city. I hope they had a designated driver.

After dinner we walked to the Hubert H. Humphrey Metrodome to see the Minnesota Twins and the Chicago White Sox. The Twins and the White Sox are bitter rivals and are locked in a tight race for the AL Central division championship. The game was pretty dull until the 5th inning, when the home team had a big three-run inning. Things really heated up in the bottom of the 7th during a disputed checked swing/called strike on Twins batter Denard Span. Minnesota manager Ron Gardenhire stormed the field and argued with the 3rd base umpire for about 10 minutes. He was ejected from the game, and the Twins fans threw baseballs, hats and other debris onto the field. White Sox manager Ozzie Guillen pulled his team off the field, while fans booed and peppered the field with more debris. The PA announcer warned that if fans continued to throw things onto the field, the game would be forfeited to the Sox. It was great fun. Eventually things settled down and the players returned to the field. The Sox promptly walked Span, and the Twins subsequently scored 4 runs in the inning. The Twins won 10-6. It was a wonderful game.

Big Day in the Big Cities

We were in St. Paul a few weeks ago for the FMCA convention, but were so busy convening, we didn't get to see any of the Twin Cities. Excepting one short excursion to the Mall of America, we never left the FMCA venue.

Our camp in Hinkley is about 1 1/4 hour drive from "the cities", so we decided to go back to town. We didn't know precisely where all we were going, but we had several places on our list. We considered leaving Matilda behind because it would be difficult to take her to some of places we could go, but ultimately we decided to take her with us, so we could stay in the cities as long as we wanted to. I think it turned out to be the right choice.

Our first stop was the Cathedral of St. Paul, located on the highest point in the city of St. Paul. This Cathedral of St. Paul is the forth, and likely last, cathedral of St. Paul in this city. Construction was begun on this architectural marvel in 1907. The exterior was completed in 1914, and it has been undergoing almost continual additions since that time. We spent about an hour wandering through the cathedral on our own, then went on a formal tour. Later we walked around the Minnesota state capitol, a few blocks from the cathedral.

Next we went to the visitor center for the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area. This park includes 72 miles of the Mississippi River above and below the Twin Cities. It is managed by the National Park Service, but in a very different manner than most national parks. The National Park Service actually owns less than 1% of of the land included in the park. The land is actually owned by a variety of local government entities, and is a collection of city, county and regional parks. We spent some time at Minnehaha Regional Park in the Mississippi Gorge section. There we saw Minnehaha Falls, made famous by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow in his "Song of Hiawatha". Lock and Dam No. 1 is just above the park. We took a self-guided tour of the lock works. This is one of 29 locks and dams allowing barge and pleasure boat navigation from St. Anthony Falls just above Minneapolis to St. Louis. We waited, but no ships came through. The dam here also provides hydroelectric power to the Ford Motor Company assembly plant across the river, where Ford Rangers are made.

Finally, we visited the Mill Ruins Park, St. Anthony Falls, the Stone Arch Bridge and Upper St. Anthony Falls Lock and Dam, all in the St. Anthony National Historic District near downtown Minneapolis. This area contains the only falls on the whole Mississippi River and the remains of many historic mills. Minneapolis owes its existence to St. Anthony Falls. Water power was harnessed here, first for saw milling and later for flour milling and hydroelectric production. Between 1880 and 1930 Minneapolis led the nation, and at times, the world in flour production.

The Twin Cities area is the most biker-friendly area I have ever seen. Bicycle commuting is very popular. There are many bike lanes on the city streets and there are a multitude of bike and walking trails connecting regional and city parks and the downtown areas.

This area is only a few blocks from the Metrodome where the Minnesota Twins play. They were playing as we toured the park and will be playing at home the rest of the week. Hopefully we can catch a game before we head north.

Paddle: St. Croix River

Today we paddled on the St. Croix National Scenic River. We put in at Riverside Landing and paddled to Yellow River Landing near Danbury, WI, a distance of about 9 miles. We had hoped to use the canoe livery in Danbury, Pardun's Canoe Rental and Shuttle Service, for a shuttle, but they were swamped and the guy we needed to talk to was out delivering tourists. We elected not to wait. Plan B was to do a bike shuttle. The problem with that is that Yellow River Landing is private and was posted no trespassing. Nolo problemo. We found a place just up the mouth of the Yellow River near the bridge that had fair access and was not posted. I chained the bike to a tree laced with poison ivy, and we headed for Riverside Landing.

Riverside Landing was a very nice federal facility. It offered paddle-in and walk-in camping, and had water and pretty clean pit toilets. We put in and headed down the river. The river was wide, shallow, sandy and slightly stained. It reminded me somewhat of the James River below Lynchburg VA. It was a beautiful Saturday and we saw a lot of canoe and tubing traffic on the river. It was not your quiet wilderness experience. The St. Croix has designated canoe campsites and there were two on this section. We stopped at one for lunch and found it to be rather trashy and not very inviting. It did have a Boundary Waters-style pit toilet, though.

While Matilda is doing well, she is not yet totally comfortable in the boat. She spends the first hour of the trip running from one end of the boat to the other. The problem with that is that she is too tall to go under the thwarts and too short to step over them. She tries to jump over, but is a little clumsy, and it is not pretty. The second hour, she crashes and takes a nap on the bottom of the boat. During the third hour the cycle repeats. She did have one out of boat experience near the end of the trip. I didn't see exactly what happened. She likes to balance precariously with her paws on the gunwale, and sometimes she slips. I think she just fell out of the boat. By the time I reached for her, she already had one leg over the gunwale trying to get back in the boat. I took a picture of her while wet and pitiful, but I won't embarrass her again by posting it. See Tuesday's picture; it's pretty much the same.

We reached the take-out about 3:00. I left Dorcas on a gravel island in the Yellow River and waded to shore. The bike was still there. Poison ivy is apparently a strong theft deterrent. I biked 7.5 miles up WI 35 to Riverside Landing and retrieved the car. We were on the road headed for home by 4:00.

I guess I was a little disappointed with this section of the St. Croix. It was a pretty river, but it was rather wide and straight, and not terribly interesting. It would probably be better on a weekday, when there are less folks out. If we paddle the St. Croix again it will be an upper stretch above it's confluence with the Namekagon. More likely we will paddle on the Namekagon, which is also a part of the St Croix National Scenic River system.

Paddle: Kettle River - Matilda's Second Boat Ride

A few days ago we paddled on the Kettle River, putting in at the MN 48 bridge and paddling upstream. Today we put in at the same place, but paddled downstream instead. After about 1 1/2 hours we turned around and paddled upstream back to our put-in. I figure we paddled down 2-3 miles. This section was much like the upper section we had paddled on Tuesday. It alternated from deep still pools to moderately swift and shallow sandy sections. The trip was uneventful; Matilda did not swim today. We saw another bald eagle and got up close and personal with a white-tailed deer. The deer here are a bright red color, very different from the gray-brown deer at home. We explored several back-water sloughs. We turned up one side creek and followed it upstream about 1/2 mile before it returned to the river. It turns out it was not a creek at all, but an alternate channel in the river. It was a very pleasant paddle, but now we are ready for some conventional downstream action. Unfortunately we can find no other paddlers here to help set a shuttle for a longer trip.

I find that I am getting in a rut, showing pictures of Dorcas' backside (again), but now with Matilda in the foreground. Some readers are demanding pictures of Matilda so they can watch her grow. I will try to provide some balance.

Photo of the Week

I don't know... this image just kinda grabbed me. I guess you don't have to be a big dog to run with the big dogs. We know a few folks with smaller rigs, and this made me think of them