Home From the Buffalo River

We have completed our annual canoe camping trip on the Buffalo National River and have arrived safely at home. The 10-day camping trip was great...one of our best. The weather was mild, a bit windy and some rain with a couple of storms. A few years ago we did not complete our planned Buffalo trip and took out early due to flood conditions. This year Myron and Wayne were determined we would complete our trip from Ponca, AR to Buffalo City, AR "come hail or high water". Well, we had both hail and high water and still completed the planned trip.

On Wednesday, April 13 we met Wayne and Lynda and Harry, as planned, at Wild Bill's Outfitter and drove the two hours to Ponca with our shuttle drivers. As we neared our put-in, our shuttle driver mentioned there were elk in the area. We have been to this area several times and had never seen the elk. Suddenly, as if on queue, there was an entire herd of elk beside the drive at the put-in. Dorcas jumped out to take pictures.Very cool.

The day was sunny and nice so the put-in was crowded with paddlers launching their kayaks and canoes. While lower sections of the river were very high, the Ponca area was at an optimal level. Apparently everyone knew that; we had never seen so many paddlers here before. Most were day-paddlers, but a few were camping. The first incident occurred right out of the chute, when one boat in our party (which will remain unidentified) got pinned on a rock 20' from the put-in. The boat got swamped, and it filled with water. It wouldn't have been that big a deal except there were 50 other boaters there watching us, all thinking "Rookies ...they're never going to make it". I'm sure the paddler(s) affected were very embarrassed.

The river was at an excellent level. The upper section was characterized by swift water and 1-2 foot standing waves. Enough excitement to be interesting, but nothing too difficult, even with over-loaded canoes. The flow was good, and we made good time. Typically we camped about 4:00 each evening and be on the water by 10:30 the next morning, making for a very leisurely float. As usual, we ate well, grilling steaks or chops the first four nights.


Late in the evening of Day 2 some thunderstorms came through and it rained pretty hard for about 3 hours. We knew the storms were coming and had camped well up on a high bank. By morning the river was rising and ultimately came up about 5', drowning our camp fire. As we watched a set of standing waves grow at the bend just below our camp, we made the decision to lay over this day. We snagged fire wood from the river as it passed by our camp to stoke our re-located fire. By the next morning the water had dropped 2-3 feet, and we set off again. Each passing day the water level continued to drop and become more clear and green.

Usually on this river there are several swift chutes with a tree blocking the obvious route, making for a challenging run. On this trip none existed. Perhaps they had all been washed out. In past trips we could particularly count on Harry for some entertainment at these places, but Harry's river skills have improved, and he's no fun any more. We need to recruit a new rookie.

After 9 nights and 10 days on the river, we ferried across the White River to Riley Landing, where our cars were waiting. Perhaps the most exciting part of the trip was the drive eastward across northern Arkansas where we experienced 50 mph cross winds. The poor little Element would have had a hard time staying in the road, even if it didn't have a canoe on top. We spent the night at a motel near Cookeville TN and visited friends in Morganton before arriving at home. It is good to be home. We have been gone for 18 days and slept in the tent all but two nights.

But now we have to prepare for our next adventure. So many trips ... so little time.

Buffalo Gals Won't You Come Out Tonight?

After a leisurely breakfast on Monday, Dorcas and I departed Brushy Creek campground at the crack of noon, well before the forecast storms. We headed northwest and soon passed through Tupelo, Mississippi, the birthplace of Elvis. We didn't even stop for a fried banana and peanut butter sandwich. The storms finally hit shortly before we passed through Memphis. The wind and rain were fierce, but it washed some of the dust and sand off the car and boat. We stopped at a Sam's Club for some rib eyes and a 4-berry sundae and crossed the "Big Muddy" into Arkansas. We went on-line and found a Motel 6 in Conway AR that was pet-friendly and had a coin laundry. At the Motel 6 we did laundry, caught up on our e-mails, paid bills and conducted some other business on-line. I love the internet.

This morning we had breakfast at the Waffle House which was on the left side of the Motel 6 and did some shopping at the Walmart Supercenter which was on the right side of the Motel 6. Before noon we were on the road north towards Yellville AR, where we will meet our outfitter for our shuttle on the Buffalo River. When we crossed the Buffalo River at Dillard's Ferry the river was muddy and at a fairly high level, due to the recent rains. "For experienced paddlers only" the NPS web site said. Apparently the river had been closed here today due to high levels. We stopped at the outfitter and found that at Ponca, about 85 miles upstream, where we would put in on Wednesday, the river had crested and was actually at a very good level for paddling. Unless we get more rain the river should be at a good level for most of our trip. We are camped at Buffalo Point, a very nice NPS campground on the river just below Dillard's Ferry. We will meet our friends from NC tomorrow at 9:00 at Wild Bill's Outfitter, who will shuttle us to Ponca. They will then store our vehicles at their shop and drive them to Riley's Landing on the White River, before we take off in 10 days. Baring anything unforeseen, we will make about 125 miles over the 10 days. We look forward to a very leisurely float.

Paddling Northern Alabama

Plan B turned out great! We camped in Brushy Lake Recreation Area, a small campground in the William Bankhead National Forest.  The campground was empty when we arrived, very nice, with hot showers (a pleasant surprise) and only a dozen sites. Our group had the place to ourselves until the weekend ... which brought, families with squealing kids, barking pit bulls, generators and all night partying. The weekends help remind us how fortunate we are that we can camp on weekdays. On Thursday we paddled on Brushy Creek, so we put in on the lake behind our campsite and portaged a 20 ft concrete dam (not easy). The creek was very nice with clear green water very much like the upper sections of the Current River in Missouri, with limestone ledges and low bluffs. On Friday we paddled Thompson Creek which flowed into the North Sipsey Fork, where we took out. Another pretty creek with a few small rapids and one narrow chute the guide book indicated was a class III rapid due to a large rock blocking passage at the bottom of the chute. After a tough portage around the rapid it appeared the offending rock was missing. Myron was disappointed we had not run it. Dang. We had a couple more pullovers, and then we hit the monster log jam. Where we crossed it was about 25 ft wide and 8 ft high. Even Matilda had to exit the boat to cross. After a long hard day everyone still agreed it was a nice trip and we were rewarded with a beautiful waterfall near the end. When we returned to camp each campsite had a notice warning us of the impending government shutdown and advising us not to pay ahead because we might have to leave. What would we do???  Later we learned that our federal government had reached a fiscal compromise, and we were safe once more.  It was so very comforting.

Saturday we paddled Borden Creek about 6 miles for a nice gentle float that also flowed into the North Sipsey Fork (thankfully below the huge log jam). The narrow creek had deep pools of mint green water and high bluffs with numerous water falls and springs. It was good to have an easy day after our hard work on Friday. Saturday night we went into town for a steak dinner and discovered the annual Moulton Chicken Festival in progress. What fun.

Sunday's paddle was on the Sipsey River which is wider and flatter but very scenic with nice waterfalls. Dozens of other boaters put on ahead of us but we didn't see them during our trip. There were no difficulties this day except for the class V take-out. Thankfully, we had two 4-wheel drive vehicles to haul everyone's gear to a parking lot high above the river. The scenic highlight of the trip was a 60 ft undercut, horseshoe-shaped, limestone bluff just before the take-out.

Each evening we enjoyed hot showers, shared happy hour with the group, dinners on our own, followed by river tales by the campfire. By nightfall each evening we were serenaded by a full chorus of tree frogs.

We had moved to this area because there was good water after the recent rains, allowing us to paddle some smaller creeks.  The water has been dropping steadily however, and we are running out of creeks.  On Monday the forecast is for storms in the afternoon.  Some folks are going on hikes, some are leaving.  We will likely pack up before noon and head for Arkansas for our trip on the Buffalo River.

Best Laid Plans...

When you're a paddler you have to go with the flow (as it were)... The plan was to meet our party at Payne Lake Recreation Area in the Oakmulgee Ranger District of the Talladega National Forest. We arrived mid-afternoon and looked for familiar faces and vehicles with canoes. After exploring all the wrong campground loops, we finally found our trip leader's truck camper with canoe but Bob and Sue were missing. We made camp, built a fire, had happy hour and ate dinner. About dusk our leaders returned with sad news. A big storm passed through the area the night before and they had been out scouting the Cahaba River conditions and accesses. They reported that the river was flooded. In the meantime, the other members of our party had arrived. We had a group meeting to discuss our options. The concensus was that it would not be safe or fun to paddle the Cahaba at that level and we should explore other Alabama paddling options.

This morning, after a chilly but cozy night, and a leisurely breakfast, we packed up and are now on the road for a three hour drive north to plan B. We will camp at Brushy Lake Recreation Area in the William B Bankhead National Forest. We hope to paddle streams and rivers in that area for the next few days.

The group hopes to return to the Cahaba River for the canoe camping trip once the waters have had a few days to receed. We may not be able to catch the Cahaba this trip but plan to continue our journey north to Arkansas and the Buffalo River.

For Matilda, at least, the trip so far has not been a total loss. She had a great time reuniting with her buddy Bric, Bob and Sue's 1 1/2 year old black lab. They played last night and this morning until they dropped.

We're Back!!!

OK, we admit we have been REALLY slack in posting to our blog (it's Myron's fault!). Yeah I know...my fingers haven't been broken... Perhaps Myron will do some catch up posts later..don't hold your breath, LOL. Let's move on and jump into our current and next adventure. Here goes!

We had a great time in Florida during the winter, much warmer than last year, doing all our usual fun things, biking, canoeing, hanging with friends, etc. Basicly, living the good life of a pair of snowbirds. One thing of note, we are now the owners of a piece of "swamp land in FL". Actually, it's a nice RV lot in The Great Outdoors, a very nice RV Resort with lots of amenities, in Titusville, near the Space Coast. Also, we may have left FL a bit soon...it's still cold at home.

Our couple of weeks off the road were spent catching up on home chores and getting ready for our next trip. You know, doctor appointments, auto maintenance, changing fluids in the coach, cooking and dehydrating food for future wilderness trips, doing taxes (I finished and e-filed while Myron was driving through Atlanta)...the usual. Plus, we spent 5 days camping and canoeing in the Uwharrie National Forest in the middle of those two weeks.

We're meeting friends tonight in Centreville, AL where we will put in tomorrow for a 5 day canoe camping trip on the Cahaba River. We then head to the Ozark Mountains in NW Arkansas for our traditional Spring canoe camping trip on the Buffalo River.

Stay tuned. We'll post more later. We promise. No really, we will post again soon. No lie. Unless, we convert to Facebook?!?! Nooooo say it's not so.

Out of the Wilderness ... At Last!

Dorcas and I have been going into the Boundary Waters every year since we met in 1997. We have always gone in the late summer/early fall, usually the two weeks around Labor Day. On most days during past trips I would wear short pants and a tee-shirt during the day and put on a little more clothing as the temperatures dropped late in the afternoon. Often it would rain for a day or two, but we would be blessed primarily with mild and fair weather. I think all this good weather luck caught up with us this year. While back home folks were seeing 90+ degree days every day and weeks at a time without rain, we experienced the coldest, wettest, windyest (sp?) trip we have ever had in the Boundary Waters. It didn't rain every day, but it probably did rain every other day. And they were cold rains. Typically the high temperatures were in the mid-60s with lows in the mid-40s, frequently with winds blowing in excess of 20 mph. I put on my long-handled bottoms on the second day, and they never came off after that. I wore a Gore-Tex rain jacket practically all day, every day. I think the only time we were really comfortable was when we were in our sleeping bags in our tent. We spent a lot of time reading and went to bed early on more than a few evenings. High winds and paddling on large lakes can be an adventure. During the first half of our trip we were primarily east-bound and the wind was largely at our backs, providing a free ride. But as we turned the corner at Horseshoe Lake and began traveling westward, the wind became a serious impediment and was a factor in our travel planning. Two particular crossings, Winchell Lake on Day 12 and Brule Lake on Day 14, were particularly challenging. Ironically, the most interesting event of the trip was due to the high winds. While traveling into a strong head wind on Cliff Lake we heard very clearly the sound of shattering timber. After a short moment of panic we saw a very large tree about 100 yards to our left beginning to tip. It was taller than any other tree around it, and it appeared to be green and alive. Over a period of what seemed like forever, but probably was less than about 8 seconds, we watched it fall, taking out a number of smaller trees on its way down. The sound was terrifying and fascinating, but it reminded us of the power of the wind and the respect we should show it.

Other parts of our trip were a-typical compared to past trips. We caught a few fish, but only caught enough for a decent fish fry one time. I think this was partly because the fish weren't cooperating, but with the poor weather we just didn't really have our heart into fishing. On several layover days we never took the boat out. Wildlife sightings were off. In the past we have seen bears, moose, otters, minks and other interesting mammals. This year, except for a few beavers and bald eagles, the highlight sightings were the obligatory campsite squirrels and mice.

To top things off I was sick during the entire trip. About the time we put in I came down with what I think may have been a sinus infection. It never got better during the trip and left me feeling weak, and nauseous, with a constant headache, for most of the trip. Thankfully Dorcas and Lynda both pop Benadryl and had plenty to spare, which did help relieve the symptoms somewhat. I am going to see my doctor when I get home and secure a supply of antibiotics for my first aid kit.

We were in the Boundary Waters for 14 days. Normally on the last night we are sad and savor those last few hours in the wilderness. This year on our last night I think we were all ready for the trip to end.

In the early years of going to the Boundary Waters we planned ambitious trips, covering many miles and moving almost every day. In the latter years our trips have become much easier. While we are in for 14 days and our food pack on day one still weighs over 80 pounds, we have learned we don't have to work so hard to enjoy the wilderness. This year we paddled and portaged a total of about 33 miles and laid over 5 days.

We took out at our put-in at Brule Lake and drove about 3 hours back to Ely. On the drive we saw deer and red fox, more wildlife than we had seen in the wilderness. After a short detour to the Dairy Queen for a traditional milk shake we arrived at Fall Lake and found our respective RVs to be as we left them. We all enjoyed long showers and then a fine dinner at The Chocolate Moose in Ely.

As I read back over this report I see it seems rather negative and implies that we may not have had a good time. That is far from the truth. It is true that the weather was not as good, and we didn't catch as many fish, as on most previous trips. But we did do and see many great things, as we always do. The wilderness presents many faces. The Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is one of my favorite places. I am already looking forward to the next trip.

ELY!!!!!

Ely MN is one of my favorite places. I think it is the heaven that paddlers go to when they die. It claims to be the coolest small town in the US and I believe it. Where else are there more than 30 canoe outfitter shops on the main drag. When you come into town, if your car doesn't have a canoe on it, they give you a loaner. Kinda like loaning you a jacket at a fancy restaurant. If you try to bring a kayak into town, they make you leave it at the town line and give you a canoe. Ely is making a tongue-in-cheek bid for the 2016 Winter Olympic Games. My kind of town.

We arrived in Ely on Sunday afternoon and checked into Fall Lake Campground in Superior National Forest about 10 miles west of town, where we would stay the next three nights. On Monday we went into town to visit the Post Office and buy some groceries. We visited some shops; Dorcas bought some purple lures, and we bought some used camp chairs at an outfitter to replace the ones we forgot and left at home. Before returning to camp we ate a hearty lunch at an old favorite, The Chocolate Moose. Back at camp our friends Wayne and Lynda had arrived, and we spent some time catching up with tales of their travels. Today we picked up our BWCAW permit and our fishing licenses. Tomorrow we will drive about 100 miles to Brule Lake (probably less than 30 miles as the crow flies) and put into the BWCAW for 14 days. During that time we will be severed from phone or internet communications (egads!). I will post about our wilderness adventures in a little over 2 weeks.

Bon voyage.

Zoomin' Across the UP

We pretty much zoomed across the rest of the UP. Friday we drove westward almost 300 miles along the shore of Lake Superior. It is a very scenic drive. Michigan has frequent road-side rest areas, usually at lakes and rivers, and we stopped at several. We crossed into central time zone before leaving Michigan. We arrived at the Bad River Casino just west of Ashland WI about supper time. There they offer free RV parking with 50A electric and water. Sweet. We ate the fish dinner in the casino and crashed.

Saturday we continued westward about 90 miles to Duluth. Just east of Ashland we saw a bald eagle circling above us. A short while later a black bear ran across the highway in front of us. We got a pretty good look at him; might even have hit him if I had not slowed down. Unfortunately we froze and did not get a photograph. He smiled and waved at us just before running back into the woods.

We spent Saturday night in Duluth at the Lakehead Boat Basin. The Basin is a marina, but allows RV parking in the summer. In the winter they haul boats out of the water before it freezes and set them in the RV spaces. It is only three blocks from the Aerial Lift Bridge and Duluth's Canal Park. An excellent location. We walked the Waterfront and beyond to Fitger's Brewhouse, where we ate and enjoyed a beer sampler. Even after the sampler I wasn't sure which beer I wanted to fill my growler, so our waitress brought me more samples. I settled on the Northern Waters Smoked Helles. After dinner we returned to camp and watched the ships pass through the canal. Life is still good.

Up to Yooper Land

On Wednesday we crossed the Mighty Mac and landed in the land of the Yoopers (i.e UPers, those of Michigan's upper peninsula). The Mackinac Bridge is a very impressive structure. We have crossed it three times now in the motor home and every time it was windy. I think it is always windy there. One of the two lanes was blocked, as it was the first two times we crossed, and we ambled over at a modest 25 mph. After a relatively short drive we landed at our camp Clementz's Northcountry Campground north of Newberry "the Moose Capital of Michigan". We had originally planned to stay at Tahquamenon Falls State Park. However, Michigan has a ridiculous policy regarding vehicle entry fees. To stay two nights at the state park would cost us: $23/night x2 (campsite fee) + $8 (reservation fee) + $8x2 (entry fee for car) + $8x2 (entry fee for coach) = $86. Now, we have heard that Tahquamenon Falls State Park is a very nice park, but come on! Instead we elected to stay at Clementz's Northcountry GC ($10 per night with our Passport America discount) and visit the park on a day pass ($8). After we visited the state park CG we agreed that the private CG was nicer and less crowded than the state park CG. The temperature plunged to below 48 degrees Wednesday night. After the scorching summer we have experienced, this felt downright cold!

On Thursday we toured the area, heading first to Whitefish Point and the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Whitefish Point is known as the Graveyard of Ships because more ships have been lost here than anywhere else on Lake Superior. The museum memorializes many of the wrecks, including the Edmund Fitzgerald which sank off Whitefish Point in 1975. The Edmund Fitzgerald is the last of the wrecks on Superior. Presumably safer hull designs and improved navigational aids have resulted in safer passage through these treacherous waters. The very first vessel known to have sailed on Lake Superior, was also the first to perish and was named, ironically, "Invincible". I was particularly surprised at the number of wrecks that were the result of collisions with other vessels. Many occurred in good weather with excellent visibility. My favorite wreck was the "Myron". It went down in November 1919 in icy waters. As the ship was going down the captain ordered the crew to the lifeboats, but he elected to stay with the ship. Ironically, all crew members were lost, but the captain was saved the next day, 20 miles away, clinging to a section of the pilot house.

There is also a light house with an attached keeper's house at the point. The house is very unique as it is a duplex for the keeper and the assistant keeper. It is a two-story house, but split vertically down the middle. There is a single front door and single rear door, but there are separate interior doors which separate the two apartments. They share a common passage way to the light tower, which could be accessed without going outside.

In the afternoon we visited Tahquamenon Falls State Park. The Lower Falls is a series of falls, best viewed by taking a rowboat or a canoe several hundred yards to an island. Then you can walk the trails on the island and get a good look at the 1/2 dozen or so small waterfalls. The Upper Falls is four miles upstream and is much more impressive. It is 200' wide and plunges 50' and is claimed to be the largest falls east of the Mississippi River. I don't know exactly how they figure that. There are many falls in NC that are much taller. Maybe it's a volume flow thing. I assume Niagara Falls is #1. At the Upper Falls there is a reconstructed logging camp that is now a restaurant and the Taquamenon Falls Brewery. After a day of hard site-seeing it sounded pretty good, so we went in. Dorcas ordered Blueberry Ale, which was served with fresh blueberries floating on the surface. They didn't serve pitchers of beer, but would draw you a growler. Amazingly, you could drink your growler at the table and then take home the leftover. I ordered a growler of Blond Beaver Ale. Not bad. It is ironic that at NC State parks the rangers will come onto your campsite and pour out your beer, while a Michigan state park has a resident brew-pub. Go figure. I guess this partially negates their silly-ass entry fee policy.

Photo of the Week

Garlic onion pies are very popular at the Cherry Bowl diner in Honor Michigan. DANG! We had to settle for blueberry.

Crackin' Up in NW Lower Michigan

Before leaving Shipshewana Friday morning I went back into town to buy some kite parts. I had tried to fly my Prism stunt kite a few days ago and found a critical part was missing. Bummer. No flight that day. A web search revealed that the only authorized dealer in Indiana for Prism kites is Head Over Heels in, of all places, Shipshewana. As expected, they had the kites but no spare parts. The owner was super, however, and took the part I needed off of one of her stock kites. We are now ready for flight again.

We departed Shipshewana about 11:00 headed north. Within 10 minutes we had crossed into Michigan. I would like to say that the drive into Michigan was uneventful, but nay, it was not so. When we arrived at our campground Dorcas went back to the bedroom and exclaimed "OH NO!!!!". When this happens it is usually something minor, like a cabinet door came open or something like that, but this time it was more significant. The rear window over the bed had been shattered. There was a clear, sharp point of impact and lines radiating out from there. No unbroken piece larger than 1/2". It looked to me like we got hit by a rock or a BB gun. Upon reflection, Dorcas remembered hearing a sound like something hitting the floor, but we never saw anything. Luckily, only the outer pane is affected; the inner pane is undamaged. The outer pane is still intact, at least for now, but even if it all collapsed and fell out, the inner pane would keep out the weather. That's a good thing, because this will be no quick and easy repair. This is a pretty specialized window. It is an emergency exit window with a special mechanism to allow it to be pushed out in a emergency. It also has a bronze mirror tinting that is not found on most RVs. It is definitely a special order job and will likely take a month or more to get the part. I called my insurance agent to let him know. Since I will not be fixing it soon and since it would be difficult for an adjuster to catch up with us, he suggested waiting until we got home to file a formal claim. I'll worry about it later.

We stayed at the Platte River Campground in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore for two nights. Unfortunately we had to stay on a different site each night. This is a very popular campground and is the same one we were unable to get into last year after standing in line for several hours at dawn. This year we were able to score two single reservations for different sites on Friday and Saturday nights. We just had to move before noon on Friday, which meant we had to stay close to home that morning. On Monday we moved about 12 miles to Indigo Bluffs, a new Class A ownership resort. Likewise we tried to stay there last year, but it was not yet completed. Since we didn't get to visit the resort last year they gave us another complimentary 3-night stay this year. It is a very nice place, but it should be since lot prices top out at $250k. There was no pressure to buy. In fact, we asked the sales manager to bring us a sales package, but we never saw him again.

We toured some sites in the area during our stays at these two parks. One day we drove north to Leland, Northpoint and Leelanau State Park, located at the tip of the little finger on the Michigan "mitten". Leeland had a quaint little harbor alley called Fishtown filled with fishing shacks and tourist traps. Leelanau State Park was very vice and features a campground right on Lake Michigan and the Grand Traverse Lighthouse Museum. We returned along the west shore of Traverse Bay and stopped at the harbor in Suttons Bay. Suttons Bay was a very attractive and scenic town, and obviously there is a lot of money here. We spent an hour talking to the city harbor master and looking at the boats.

We spent an afternoon on the dune at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. There was a fair breeze and I flew the kite for a while, practicing stalls, take-offs and landings. We spent an evening at the Cherry Bowl Drive-In theatre and had a traditional Lumberjack Special pizza and a pitcher of brew at the Lumberjacks Bar and Grill in Honor.

Quilting in Indiana

While we were tooling around the Amish Country we discovered the Quilt Gardens Tour. It was tough but I was able to convince Myron to actually stop at a few so I could get pictures.

The Tour is along Elkhart County's 90-mile Heritage Trail.

Most of the towns and communities along the route display a quilt-designed garden and a quilt mural.

With a map, it was like a scavenger hunt to locate the sites. Fun!
Many of the gardens were difficult to photograph because of my elevation and also some were being tended by Amish during my visit. Check out the website for a better look.

Myron's mother was a fabulous quilter so I believe she was with me in spirit enjoying the tour. I thought this would be a good opportunity to share some pictures of Myron's mother's quilts too. Sarah had a wonderful gift for color design which is beautifully reflected in her quilts.